POST 277: Hull to the Orkneys via Harwich
27th July 2018
We left Hull at about 5pm with 550 ‘one nighters’ on board and, after passing some scrap that often accumulates around ports, we passed through a lock and past the P&O ferry and a cargo ship.
Some of the one nighters partied until 4am!
28th July 2018
They departed at Harwich next morning to be replaced by the other passengers who, like us, would be going to Greenland. We decided to walk into Harwich but only got as far as Morrisons supermarket. We left Harwich at 7pm.
29 July 2018
This was a sea day and because the forecast was for rough weather our scheduled tender stop at Lerwick on the Shetland Islands was changed to the port of Kirkwall on the Orkneys. This suited us as we are going to the Shetland Islands next year. Whilst at sea there were the usual port and excursion talks and other ship activities and it was an opportunity to get used to our first time on this ship. There are two decks suitable for walking around which suited me.
Our Captain was Sergiy Zhygalin whose first position on graduating from Odessa Marine Senior Academy was as 4th officer in the Arctic on an icebreaker. Useful experience for where we were headed.
30 July 2018
We arrived in Kirkwall at 7am.
We were booked on an excursion in the morning to the Ring of Brodgar and Skara Brae. A short walk from the coach brought us to the Ring of Brodgar, which is an impressive stone circle constructed some 4,500 years ago. 27 of the original 60 stones remain.
We then continued to Skara Brae, which is the best preserved prehistoric village in Europe dating from 3,000 B.C. It was inhabited for approximately 500 years. We walked along the ‘decorative’ beach to get there.
To enter the Information Centre and a ‘house’.
We then walked around the outside
I then headed to Skaill House where some of Captain James Cook’s crockery is kept.
After lunch on the ship I walked around Kirkwall in the area of St Magnus Church.
The inside of the church is full of interest.
I then walked through town for an ice-cream and then around the harbour. 
Finally, there was a sunset viewable from the ship. A fitting end to a fascinating day. 
My wife Celia came dashing out of the shower naked and dripping wet. It was the nearest I would get to the ‘Titanic moment’ when Leonardo DiCaprio drew Kate Winslet completely nude, except for a necklace. Celia didn’t even have a necklace on.
For those who know little about Greenland, it is the largest island in the World ( although larger Australia and Antartica are continents). Over 80% of Greenland is covered in permanent icecap (see bottom right below). Iceland, which we would also go to, is the smaller island bottom right. 
North Greenland is not that far from the North Pole! We went to South Greenland. We also went so far West we had to alter our watches and cameras three times going there and three times coming back. 
Our ship Marco Polo, shown below in Akureyri, Iceland, was quite small and over 50 years old. With 800 passengers it is the one behind the MSC Meriviglia, the latter which has about 4500 passengers and shouldn’t be allowed in small ports. The passengers swamp small communities and I even met a passenger from the MSC ship who said it was just too big. They are not of a human scale. 
Marco Polo was built in East Germany for the Russians to a military specification and fortunately it is ice strengthened. It still has the original engines of over 50 years! It entered service in 1966 when England won the World Cup! It is quite iconic with sleek lines and the feel of being a real ship, not like the modern giant cruise ships which look like blocks of flats and seem top heavy.
Our cabin 227 was on the Baltic Deck which was to prove excellent for seeing icebergs.
An excellent book on the history of the Marco Polo is available for £7.99 from Cruise and Maritime (normal rrp £15.99). 
Greenland, with only an estimated population of 55,877 (1 January 2018), has many unusual attractions not least huge icebergs, glaciers, whales, dolphins, porpoises, seals, walrus, sea eagles, muskox, reindeer and even polar bears.
It was such attractions and a 2 for 1 deal from Cruise and Maritime that led us to book this trip over a year ago. Greenland is not the easiest place to travel around with only 62 miles of roads in its capital Nuuk, few airports, the largest one being somewhat isolated in Kangerlussaq. There are no roads between towns and villages. Getting around is generally on a sledge with a few huskies to tow you along or by boat. Travelling by ship seemed the best way to visit it. 
Greenland’s capital Nuuk only has a population of only 17,316 (1 January 2016)
I hoped to find some walks when we docked in ports and indeed did find some. However, there are mosquitoes and black flies (that can give ulcers and cysts from bites) and so some protection is advised as with my head net below. One passenger was hospitalised on a previous trip due to black fly bites.
So you are welcome to join me on this memorable journey, through my blogs (on Facebook or Word Press) which I will write over the next few weeks………..
We continued to the New River Bridge.
From where there are fine views towards Castle Howard,
And on the other side towards the Mausoleum.
The Earls of Carlisle and their families are buried in the crypt. A little further on the Pyramid came into view. This contains a large bust of Lord William Howard (1563-1640) from whom the Castle Howard branch of the Howard family originates. 
We then entered Pretty Wood to reach the folly of Four Faces.
We were on the route of of the previous walk and again passed King Oak. This time Geordie Caz was with us so the tree got a hug.
We then went through an overgrown area which for me in shorts was a bit tricky as nettles encroached on the path. At Hutton Hill Farm we reached arable land, which was much easier to walk through. 
In effect we were circling the mausoleum. 
A bit further on Alf looked as though he had gone to the toilet. We were in fact looking for a lunch spot. He had found a bench on which only he could sit. For some reason he looked so pleased. Only trouble was that it was in the sun and so we moved on……
After lunch on a log in the woods on the Ridge of Entrenchments, where flies were a bit annoying, we headed back to the car and a temporary water pipe indicated that we were indeed in a drought. It was after midday and certainly very hot – over 25 degrees. 
We finally arrived home and look what I found in my garden alongside the drive! My trekking pole had gone for an early walk and jumped out of my boot bag. As I said earlier when you get to a certain age inanimate objects find a way of moving about on their own.
The previous day Alf had been on a walking navigation course and so we put him through the ‘Spanish Inquisition’ to see if there was anything we could learn. One thing that cropped up was how should you descend these large stiles. Facing frontwards or backwards. His course leader said facing frontwards as on turning round at the top he had seen walkers catch their rucksacks and fall off. We disagreed and thought backwards as shown by Sid the Yorkshireman below. We then discussed whether if we followed the course leaders advice and had an accident, could we sue him. However, it was decided this might not work so we decided not to sacrifice Sid the Yorkshireman. 
The question then arose as to when you should have ‘elevenses’, that is the coffee and banana break, given that we had started late. By 11am I was ready as having had breakfast at about 7.00am, over 4 hours earlier I was in need of a break and food, especially given the hot weather. The others wanted to carry on and complete more mileage before having a break. With missed one good viewpoint with nice soft grass but come 11.30am I went on ‘strike’ and just halted and got my banana and coffee out and said I would catch them up. I think the clue is in the title ‘elevenses’. The others reluctantly parked up and ‘Sid the Yorkshireman’ was duly punished by having thistles stuck in his foam mat. It is a brave walker who do not comply with the Chair of the Ethics Committee wishes.
We descended to a fine limestone pavement.
We briefly joined the Dales Way and recognised we had come this way on the first day of the Inn Way back on 19 March 2018, when we had started the walk. 
It was a bit different then when we had become Snow Angels! 
We then started ascending to Bale House.
Where at about 2pm, at the nearby High Barn, we stopped for lunch.
We then descended to Hebden Beck and followed it to Hebden. 
At Hebden Sid the Yorksman got his Chardonnay bottle out, swearing it was water. But when he mentioned he had gone a bit faint I did wonder. 
We descended further to the fine suspension bridge over the River Wharfe, where people were cooling off by swimming in the river.
What water was left was being made good use of by the locals to cool off.
We then ascended with Brockle Beck on our left to take a right turn to Rakefoot. We continued to ascend on open ground with fine views over Derwentwater to Cat Bells
We passed some Duke of Edinburgh participants who were administering blister pads to their feet. A fairly common sight at this time of year. A few blisters and suffering on the fells is character building so I am told! I just think it is painful and should be avoided at all costs – the blisters that is.
Walla Crag’s height is easy to remember at 1234 feet and comprises a rocky, heather clad and forested area.
We soon reached the summit cairn where, at just after midday, it was time for a late coffee and banana break, with excellent views all round. The only problem was that I had forgot to bring my coffee.
There are extensive 360 degree views from here, including of Great Cable (top middle in the photograph).
We were soon on our way to our main objective of the day High Seat. According to Wainwright the route is all swampy and is recommended only as a penance for sins. Fortunately, I had been a good boy and so the swamps weren’t that bad. Alternatively, the recent dry weather had made it acceptable. However, I could imagine with a little rain it would be a nightmare. We reached it at just before 1pm and by this time I had been ‘converted’. Not to a new religion for my sins, but to shorts as it was getting warmer.
The summit is at 1995 feet but with my extra 6 feet I think that means at least my head had climbed a mountain, which is generally regarded as being over 2,000 feet.
One final look back to the summit
We descended to Ashness Gill
It was steep and long and the two days of walking were catching up with me. 
At neatly 2pm we reached Ashness Bridge, one of the most photographed scenes in Lakeland. 
It was a quick dash down to the Borrowdale Road (at this point I could have used my bus pass for the last mile or so but there was no bus) and then left past the Borrowdale Youth Hostel to Mary Mount and late lunch.
We were slightly late for our ‘meet’, but not by much. We looked for the shopping bags of the wives and counted the cost. It was much cheaper on the fells.
Parking at Bassenthwaite I was soon going through pastures with cows and calves, a little tense, particularly when walking solo. However, the already hot weather seemed to have tired them. What would it do to me?! I couldn’t use my bus pass here. 
I passed through Barthwaite, Hole House, Barkbeth Farm and around Barkbeth Hill through pleasant pastures. The views looked good towards Great Cockup in the west and Skiddaw to the south-east.
Then the ascent began and Scotland, across the Solway Firth, in the far distance and Bassenthwaite Lake came into view. 
An unusual but natural out crop of rocks called the Watches was reached and the first good sightings of Ullock Pike (right) and Skiddaw (left) seen. 
I had a gradual climb towards the summit of Ullock Pike with changing views, including of the new £300 million water supply line being laid by United Utilities from Thirlmere to West Cumbria. This is to stop water being taken from Ennerdale Water, which is now a protected wildlife habitat. It is due to be completed in 2022. if this heatwave continues I wonder if they will need water from Ennerdale and Thirlmere?! £300 million for a glass of water seems a bit steep to me. Time for a coffee break – much cheaper.
A few more puffs and fabulous views and I was at the summit of Ullock Pike. 
Another Woolfest husband had escaped to here. What now? With this weather there was only one thing to do – carry on up to the summit of Skiddaw (3053 feet), which was 823 feet above me. The fourth highest peak in Lakeland, but only a little lower than the highest peak Scafell Pike (3208 feet) . There was a somewhat steep path to get there!
Even the sheep were feeling the heat at Carlside Tarn, especially with that wool coat! Just remember what the sheep (and husbands) have to put up with all you ladies at the Woolfest!
Views ahead, and back where I had climbed, distracted from the heavy breathing as I climbed steeply. I passed two young men descending, one of whom was hobbling on his trekking poles with a knee bandage on. Not the most encouraging sight.
A quick photoshoot on the summit and it was time for lunch. It was now 1.42pm and I had started walking at about 10.30am. 
Of course I had booked the best table in the restaurant on my previous visit here two weeks ago, but a young couple had taken it over! 
However, they let me join them at the table, out of the cooling breeze. Of course they only had T shirts on, but by the time I sat down I had 4 top layers of clothing on. There is no way I will get cold over lunch.
I passed the two ladies I had passed earlier still ascending and encouraged them to carry on. I hope they made the summit? One was having asthma issues, which was affecting her breathing.
It was a long descent back over Ullock Pike, but in continuing good weather the views were stunning. 
I dropped off the ridge to find an alternative path back to the car using a section of the Allerdale Ramble. At the junction I stopped for a rest and a nice couple asked if I wanted my photograph taken as I was solo, a nice thought.
So I took a photograph of them too. 
By now the sun was dropping and creating lovely reflections on Bassenthaite Lake 
It was about 5.30pm by the time I got back to the car. Celia phoned me to ask where I was!
I arrived at Kettlewell exactly at 9.30am but Sid the Yorkshireman and Geordie Caz had been delayed due to traffic. However, we soon passed three inns on The Inn Way, The King’s Head (21st on the walk), the Blue Bell Inn (22nd) and the Racehorses Hotel (24th).
Kettlewell is the Spaghetti Junction of Wharfedale with two streams and numerous paths radiating from it. After some debate as to which side of the stream we should follow (either is possible) and which path, we eventually found a sign to Great Whernside and then the navigating is straightforward – head straight up! 
It is important to keep looking back to capture the views back to Kettlewell and Wharefdale and even me! With high winds forecast, I had deliberately worn my Rohan ‘anti- wind hat’, which would only blow off if my head blew off as well. 
Eventually after much climbing we reached Hag Dyke Hostel which, at 1533 feet, has the highest chapel in England. The hostel is one of the highest in England. However, the highest hostel accolade goes to Skiddaw House in the Lake District at 1550 feet (which I have stayed in). 
After our coffee and banana break on a sheltered bench next to the chapel, we continued our ascent with increasing winds.
We arrived at the summit at 11.42am for a customary, but windy, photoshoot. Its summit is the highest point of the Eastern flank of Wharfedale at 2,310 feet (704 metres) which might explain the high winds. It was ‘blowing a hoolie’.
Continuing along the summit ridge we left it on a descending signed path just before a pile of stones. 
The wind was whistling up the valley and it was quite difficult to stand at times. It was certainly strength sapping.
We then had a lovely descent down the Top Mere Raod to Kettlewell. 
However, the stony track is a bit hard on the feet. But nature finds a way of surviving even on stony tracks.
A really good circular walk. We now only had about 12 miles to walk to the end of the Inn Way at Grassington. We might even use our bus passes one way to do that section next time.
I say ‘victim’ because I felt a little bit responsible for encouraging him to attempt the Three Peaks. For many years I had cajoled him into attempting this great Yorkshire Challenge, without success. He had lived in the ‘flatlands’ or ‘lowlands’ of Suffolk and Norwich, where the best thing to recently come out of the area, as far I can tell, is Ed Sheeran. 
Then Dan clocked in at the Pen-ghent Cafe at 8.30am.
As we ascended a couple of youngsters had not got their dog on a lead and it ran off, uncontrolled, to chase sheep. We were very concerned about that. They did recover the dog so hopefully no damage was done to the sheep. Some people do need to take more control of their dogs.
Standing below the increasingly steep path with rain starting I think Dan had some thoughts. Such as ‘What the heck am I doing here?” 
However, with a bit of ‘winding up’ he soon started to smile again. 
Soon after I donned full waterproofs as the wind and rain increased, Dan confessed to having left his waterproof trousers at home. Several points deducted there and jokes and banter about living in the flat lowlands he wouldn’t be aware of the vagaries of the weather in the northern hills and how tough it is ‘Up North’.
Before descending amongst the mist and rain. Not what we had anticipated given the forecasts. 
At the bottom I departed for my bacon butties in the Pen-y-ghent Cafe and Dan carried on towards Whernside. This was my second breakfast as I had got up at 4.45am and had a early breakfast to drive 2 hours to the bed and breakfast on time. The sun came out and all was well with the world again!
Except that a youngster was hobbling down the track a couple of inches every 5 minutes with two trekking poles either side. I asked if he was okay and had he taken pain killers, which he had. I asked if he was still in pain and he said, presumably referring to his girlfriend, she was the pain!
Dan was going well and would go even better after he had some of my home-made Mary Berry fruit cake. It has miraculous properties (brandy) and would guarantee he got to the end. It is even rumoured it got me a free holiday in Bavaria, but that is another story…. 
I was then able to track him on his ascent of Whernside using my big zoom camera lens. 
I did photograph some walkers on the summit ridge at 14.05. This reminded me of the last sightings of Mallory going to the top of Everest, to perish there. 
Dan indicated he summited with this photograph at 14.35. Crucial evidence if he was to satisfy the Ethic’s Committee of his completion of the 3 peaks.
It was to be several hours before I was to see him again. I waited in the car (catching up on sleep) just after the pub, north-east of Chapel le Dale.
However, Dan took the lower route directly opposite Chapel le Dale. I had no telephone signal and so at 16.40 I decided to head to the next rendezvous point after his descent from Ingleborough.
His final summit time came in just after I had started a sweepstake amongst walking friends as to what time he would finish. Huge stakes of £1 per bet. Bets of finishing time ranged from mine of 10 hours 30 minutes (too optimistic as the weather closed in) up to 11 hours 45 minutes. No one bet on him not finishing!
But Then, like a mole appearing from the ground, a little head appeared! 
Then a very determined person. 
Then on spotting my Volvo a tired smile (I keep telling him to swop his VW for a Volvo).
All that remained now was to walk another 10 minutes to the Pen-y-ghent Cafe to book in at the end, whilst I drove there!
The evening was finished off with a fabulous meal at the bed and breakfast cooked to order by the excellent chef owner. Even fruit crumble and ice-cream one of my favourites, not forgetting our first courses of delicious sweet potato soup and mushrooms garlic and tomato, all washed down with a well earned bottle of wine. I had been up since 4.45am! 
As I said one of the best bed and breakfasts I have stayed in.
We then passed an old Wesleyan Chapel that had been converted to 3 bedroomed accommodation and was on the market for £389,950. 
A lime kiln, built before 1850, was in excellent condition. Lime burning required a temperature of 800-900 degrees centigrade. Lime was mostly spread on the land (usually moorland) for creating new pasture or for improving existing pasture. 
Ponies and highland cattle are grazed at Arkleside. 
As we headed up the valley we crossed the River Cover a couple of times.
Some sheep had taken up residence in a barn.
Delaying our departure until it had passed we continued along past Woodale Farm to join the quiet lane.
It was time to find some entertainment as road walking can be hard on the feet and distractions take the mind off it. Also it is one way of stopping intermarrying. 
We noticed there were no potholes and the road was perfect.
Then we remembered the Tour de Yorkshire came through here recently and I had come over from the ‘t’other’ side of the hill ahead at Park Rash. I was there! 
The roads are re-tarmaced for the cycling. So if you have potholes just need to get the Tour to go through your roads.
The views to Scar House Reservoir made it worth it. The height of the water in the reservoir reflects the dry weather we have had recently. 
By the time I got to Deadman’s Hill I was ‘dead on my feet’.
Little Whernside looks quite flat topped when your dead. 
At least Sid the Yorkshireman didn’t chop my head off as happened to these poor folks. He realised I don’t carry much money on walks. 
All that remained was a descent to Horsehouse and a visit to the church.
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