Day 7 – ’10 days of Walking in Bavaria’, An Aside, Post Traumatic Stress Disorder, Germany’s Secret Nuclear Programme, Disneyland? A Madman.

Post 260: 16 May 2018, 

An Aside.

(Notes written on 27th May)

Since returning from Bavaria I have noticed a few changes:

  1. I have had cramp in the middle of the night (unusual)
  2. I have had cracks on my heels (unusual)
  3. My hip has been paining me (unusual)

Now it’s not for me to speculate on why I am falling apart but here are a few suggestions:

  1. Pretending to be a 35 year old for 10 days in Bavaria when I’m nearly twice that age is catching up with me. There used to be a saying “Act you Age”.
  2. As outlined in the previous blog I was abandoned by my young guide outside H&M in Munich, whilst she went shopping. I even had to have my lunch standing up and leaning on H&M. You can see the extreme pressure on the body whilst trying to eat and stand up. ac805e8c-2e68-4f24-b03e-57523768ecb7
  3. This is a traumatic experience for someome my age as normally on walks we have lunch on a bench or on my walking mat. I think I could be suffering from post traumatic stress disorder. I could sue my guide but as she did it all for free I don’t think I would get much more compensation than a free beer or two which she provides in any case. Maybe I am entitled to another holiday with her in Bavaria? Poor girl.
  4. The long term effects of 10 days of increased consumption of beer, gin and shnapps is taking its toll.
  5. Too much sitting in front of a computer writing these diaries.

My cure for these ailments?  I put Dioralyte in my water today to reduce the risk of cramp when walking in hot weather. Apparently it was standard issue in Aghanistan for soldiers and if it is good enough for them it will be good enough for me.

I also went to meet two walking friends, Alan and Dan, who have been walking coast to coast in dry weather (apart from Friday on the 23 mile stretch between Richmond and Ingleby Arncliffe) and I intended to walk part of it with them along the Cleveland Way section on North York Moors, between Huthwaite Green  and Clay Bank. This used to be part of my ‘training’ walk for my coast to coasts (3 in total)  and other long-distance walks (55 in total). This is the best section of the North York Moors part of the coast to coast walk.

I drove out fairly early to Huthwaite Green to await their arrival and avoid bank holiday traffic. It is sad that the telephone kiosk here indicated by Wainwright in his guide book was removed about 8 years ago.

I knew that coast to coast was busy but was surprised that about 12 people turned  up before Alan and Dan did. But then Dan has always been a slow starter in the mornings, a bit like my wife and my Bavarian guide.

Some coast to coasters were clearly affected by the previous days walking of 23 miles through muddy fields and on tarmac in exceptional heavy rain for Yorkshire.  However, they couldn’t complain as it was their first notable rain in nearly 2 weeks of walking from St Bees. In 1991, when I walked coast to coast for the first time, 4 out of 5 days in the Lake District were like having buckets of water thrown over me continually.  They had come to the wrong person for sympathy!

On their arrival, I provided Alan and Dan with home-made cakes, my usual Mary Berry walkers fruit cake for energy and a Bavarian Rhubarb Crumble Cake. The latter followed the Bavarian recipe I had been given by my guide’s mother after she had cooked it for me in Bavaria. The only problem was that it was in German and there was some confusion as to whether the eggs should go in the dough base or the fruit filling. I opted for the dough and it was delicious.


The fruit cake always goes down well.IMG_2495

Now it is not for me to suggest that without the cake they wouldn’t have finished coast to coast but…………………….

After the cake we walked the ups and downs of the Cleveland Hills to the Lord Stones Cafe for another refreshment stop. There was music coming from nearby and it turned out that  wedding was taking place.

The views were a little hazy in the sun but improved later on.

I walked about 5.5 miles before letting Alan and Dan get their lift at Clay Bank to their bed and breakfast in Great Broughton. I returned back to my car.

Most things were cured. I must keep walking.

On return home I had a beer with my dinner (a bad habit for my weight but a nice habit picked up in Bavaria) and watched Ed Sheeran, which bought back many happy memories of Bavaria as we had mainly his CDs on in the Victoria’s car, a 9 year old Astra. Someone who will remain anonymous said “did I know before I went she had a 9 year old child called Astra?” !!!!!!!!!

Back to the main Dairies.

Interestingly a week of hurtling around Bavaria was catching up with both myself and Victoria and, with a poor forecast, we decided to have a leisurely start to the day and even had time to cook boiled eggs on what looked like a nuclear reactor plant.

I thought Germany was aiming to be nuclear free? I think it could be their secret nuclear programme. I bet every household in Germany has an egg boiler that can quickly be converted into a nuclear reactor?

In any event the eggs miraculously turned out soft boiled just as I like them. When I mentioned it to my wife she said we have enough gadgets already, not mentioning the spaghetti maker that is hardly ever used or the fondue set that stayed in a cupboard for years. Women have selective memories! b56a7c5c-c114-47c4-94b5-7ad2bdf21b64So over porridge, boiled eggs and toast Victoria explained that amongst other things the plan was to visit a nice little pad that I think was the forerunner of Disneyland.

IMG_2340It was built by King Ludwig II who nearly bankrupt Bavaria as he built 3 such pads! He was certainly eccentric, and possibly also mad. However, he has since been responsible for increased tourism to Bavaria. So has Adolf Hitler with his Eagle’s Nest! 

To be continued in the next blog………………..

Also will Alan and Dan finish their coast to coast?

Miles Walked 11. 




Day 6 – ’10 Days of Walking in Bavaria’ – Munich, Sausages, The Angel of Peace, Surfing, EU Lamborghinis? Abandoned outside H&M, Munich’s Greatest Attraction – Beer!

Post 259: 15 May 2018, Munich.  

The forecast for the day wasn’t brilliant and so we decided to make this our Munich day. It was only about an hour and a half journey from Tegernsee to street parking near the underground.

Arriving at the market we couldn’t but help notice the many sausages on display. P1110741What was more surprisingly was a shop dedicated to selling pipes. P1110742We also had a look in an outdoor shop, which was huge. That’s my shopping done apart from I wanted to find a book in English about Upper Bavaria.

Victoria had planned a walk along the river knowing that my liking for shops was low! Neither did we want to go in museums whilst the weather held.

So we headed to the River Isar and walked along its banks, past the Deutsches Museum.

P1110743P1110744P1110745P1110746P1110747Until we reached the M Plank StrasseMaximillaneum Bridge and The Angel of Peace. This marks 25 years of peace after the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-71, in which Germany was victorious. The Angel is 19 feet high and imitates the Greek statue of Nike Paioniosa on Mount Olympus.

P1110748P1040474We crossed and left the river.P1110749We passed a Parliament building flying the EU flag and a Lamborghini came out – I couldn’t resist a photograph. Is that what our EU contribution goes on? P1110750P1110751Given that Munich is hundreds of miles from the sea, I was surprised to come across surfers on a river! It was very cool. P1040482

P1110754With thunder and lightening threatening, we hurried on to Hofgarten and the Bavarian State Chancellery (Bayerische Staatskanzlei), which was completed in 1992. P1110756Then the Baroque Theatinerkirche, one of Munich’s finest buildings. P1110758We were overwhelmed by buildings to photograph, including the Frauenkirche which is the largest Gothic building in southern Germany and was built in just 20 years from 1468-88, a record time for the period. Since 1821 it has been the seat of archbishop of Munich and Fleming. P1040490We moved to Marienplatz and the Neues Ratheus (New Town Hall) which dominates with its golden statue of the virgin (1593) and the chiming clock which enacts a joust and performs the Dance of the Coopers. P1110759P1040487P1040488

We retired to a book shop for coffee and a cake and I tried unsuccesfully to find a book in English about Upper Bavaria.

Victoria also had plans to do a little shopping. It seems German women are just like British women – they can’t resist shopping when in a city. So I was abandoned outside H&M whilst Victoria went in 4 shops to find a blouse! Valuable time was being wasted and so I decided to have my lunch standing up. One of the great things about going to other countries is that you realise that we are all basically and we all have the similar wishes and desires!

ac805e8c-2e68-4f24-b03e-57523768ecb7 We then moved to the opera house area, which is one of  the favourite locations of Dan who visits the opera here regularly from the UK. It is his favourite overseas city. I think I would prefer Tromso in Norway.

More important than the opera house – where was the famous beer hall of Hobrauhaus? My now very trusted guide found it quickly.

P1110764P1110768Certainly the atmosphere inside was very good with live music and beer flowing at very reasonable prices. It is the sort of place that once you get in you don’t want to leave!

P1110779P1110781P1110770P1110769It is worth looking closely at some of the detail:

On that note we returned back to Tegernsee only to find out Victoria’s parents were treating us to a meal and beer at the famous beer hall and restaurant, the Herzoglches Braustuberl. 15cba6de-9a83-4d72-b5ef-9b1d53704377The food was delicious and it is the first time I have had smoked pork belly.

5b6f7788-d32e-4936-9e6b-c09373d4f283followed by apple fritters ice-cream and of course cream.07dd1c34-a341-44c9-b4fe-098fa5081356Life doesn’t get much better……Victoria did say on occasions she was a bad influence and now I was beginning to think she was right and so were her parents. I rarely drink so much alcohol.

A great way to end the day. Or did we have a gin and tonic or two back at the flat? Hmm……

Miles Walked 8



Day 5 – ’10 Days of Walking in Bavaria’ – Catching the Dawn, A Sculpture Garden, Porridge and Paper to Eat, A Walk away from it All.

Post 258: 14 May 2018 Bavarian Sculpture Garden, Walk around Elbach

After the previous fantastic day visiting The Eagle’s Nest and Salzburg, I was on a high and woke fairly early before 6am. I was determined to make the best of the remaining time of my holiday and not miss any opportunities. I looked out of the bedroom window and I sensed it could be a good dawn and also I wanted to photograph some sculptures I had previously seen nearby. I headed to Lake Tegernsee which was within easy walking distance. The mist was up over the mountains and valleys hereabouts, which I love because each time it is seen, it is unique and transitory.P1040407P1040408P1040409

P1040410I then reached the sculpture garden set against an awesome backdrop:

They are by:


Translated it reads:

Please do not touch any sculptures. 

Parents are liable for their children!”

I wondered how long they would last in England without them being damaged?

I ws enthralled with them and continued to find new angles locations, backgrounds and positions in order to photograph them.  It took about an hour and a half and I was starting to get cold!

Some sculptor!

My focus then returned to the lake and surrounding area. Beautiful.

P1110704P1040430P1040431P1040432P1040436The town of Rottach-Egern could be seen below me. Painters, writers and composers used to flock here to be inspired by the vibrant, buzzing and cultural life of Rottach-Egern. I have written books and blogs, I paint and draw a little, but I fall down on the composing criteria!

Visitors from all over the world come to the promenade, Seestrasse, where they appreciate the lively and exclusive atmosphere around Malerwinkel, the hotspot of Rottach-Egern. It is even rumoured that some German national team footballers live in the area around the lake, former Russian leaders and other notable people and that Liverpool FC stay here.

I felt like I had won the lottery just to be able to spend 10 days in this area through the kindness of Victoria and her family. P1040434Now who could live in a house/castle like that?  P1040437It was now time to return to my flat as I was on porridge duty and Victoria would be awakening soon. I would not be popular if I was late as she had a walk planned. Microwaves are ‘in short supply’ here and I would be using the traditional method of cooking in a saucepan with lots of stirring. Porridge with cinnamon and blueberries is essential for walks! IMG_E2097

IMG_2291We started the walk at the church in Elbach, which all I can say is somewhere in Bavaria!P1110711Victoria seemed to know where she was and where she was going (without a map – a cardinal sin in Yorkshire and a guarantee to get lost) but there are excellent signs indicating where to go and how far it would take. I got a bit worried when I saw Durham was on the sign and it had no indication how far or how long it would take to get there. I estimated that as I had come from York it would take about a day with flights and trains to get to DurhamP1110719It was a warm day and Victoria accosted my rucksack to put some of her belongings in as she hadn’t brought one. Wear the old ones out first I say!  She knew she had been such a good guide that she could get away with anything now………P1110718We soon came across some lovely flowers and hay meadows. P1110713P1110714It was lovely, peaceful, rolling countryside far from the madding crowds. IMG_2242The calmness was interrupted when we stopped for lunch and I discovered Victoria had packed, amongst other things, what seemed to paper for lunch! At least they provide plenty of benches to sit on and bins for rubbish. P1110715P1110716We then came across a point to soak our feet, but we had passed it before Victoria explained its purpose. You don’t get that on the North York Moors – just bogs! P1110720There was suddenly an overpowering smell and I thought Victoria must have forgot to have a shower that morning. It turned out that the farmers had been putting manure on the fields.

P1110722The scenery and clear paths were a delight. P1110723Things got even better when we found the ultimate bench. Note the quick change into shorts as it got warmer. I could have stayed here forever.  Again it beats a little mat on the North York Moors! 221e8e10-81b2-416a-a4f9-a3e16d623257a0fa1364-b827-40ff-8d3a-f4fd121640fe But an ornate chapel and church, Wallfahrtskapelle Birkenstein at Fischbachau-Birkenstein, beckoned. P1110730P1110731P1110732It is off the tourist track and there is little information in English, in guide books or at the site. There is a Calvary scene with three crosses on the hill near the church. The church has an outdoors section and the main church is on the second story. No photographs are allowed. Downstairs there is a shop and another small chapel. Inside there are candles and a tomb with a statue of a male laid out on top.

A fascinating place off the beaten track.

Leaving the church we somehow managed to pass a highly recommended cafe (too soon after lunch) and passed an old fire engine. P1110733P1110734We were soon back in open peaceful countryside.

P1110735P1110736P1110737Soon the church we started from came into view indicating the end of the walk with some maps on noticeboards! P1110738P1110739P1110740

A delightful walk away from the busier areas of Bavaria. Another gem by my guide.

I got a little confused here but I think Pretzels and homemade egg liquor cake appeared on our return to the flat.


Miles Walked 9

Day 4 – ’10 Days of Walking in Bavaria’, Hitler’s Eagle Nest, Berchtesgaden and over the border into Salzburg, Austria, The Sound of Music, Jesus feeds the Two – not 5,000 this time.

Post 257: 13th May 2018, The Eagles Nest, Berchtesgaden, Salzburg. 

It was an early start for a Sunday as we left ‘base’ at just after 8am with the main aim of visiting Adolf Hitler’s retreat at The Eagle’s Nest. As a child I had seen footage on TV and photographs in my Dad’s war book collection of this dramatic location where Hitler had planned the ‘holocaust’ with his generals and also where he had socialised with Eva Braun. I never thought I would eventually get to visit this location when, as a child, apart from a school trip to Holland, I never went out of the UK. My first trip abroad independently was with the British Universities America Club (BUNAC) to New York at the age of 20, which involved getting a job for 6 weeks in New York and staying with my Aunt during my summer vacation.

I had also read stories of the Allied Forces wanting to get to Eagle’s Nest first towards the end of the Second World War in 1945. Its historical connotations are huge.

The roads were quiet and I noticed interestingly that lorries are not allowed on the roads on Sundays and end up parked up. How good is that.


We starting driving past wonderful mountain scenery at just after 9.30am in fine weather.

We started climbing just before 10am towards the car park, where we were due to catch a bus to The Eagle’s Nest with the scenery becoming increasingly dramatic. The excitement of the day was building gradually.

We parked up at the Berghgasthof car park and got on one of three buses which would take us in convoy up a long and winding road to The Eagle’s Nest. There were exhilarating and tantalizing views from the bus.P1110603P1110604

The buses arrived at a turning circle quite high up and there was chance to take photographs of the Untersberg mountain range in the far distance at 1972 metres (6470 feet).

We then paid for our ticket and entered a tunnel and the waiting area for an elevator. It was quite cold and eerie in the tunnel. Quite scary for any actual visitors to see Hitler.

P1110605P1110606P1110608P1110609We emerged onto the top with fabulous 360 degree views. Lake Konigssee can be seen below and just to its right Germany’s second highest mountain Wartzman at  8900 feet(2713 metres)P1110610P1110611P1110612P1110614P1110615There was then time in bright warm sunshine to explore The Eagle’s Nest with snow still about.

P1110638P1110640There are some photographs and information about The Eagle’s Nest in the restaurant building.

P1110646P1110647P1110648P1110649P1110650P1110651P1110652P1110653P1110654P1110655P1110656P1110657P1110659P1110660P1110661As Hitler was no longer about I decided to have a cup of coffee and cake to celebrate (any excuse). It always comes with cream in Bavaria. IMG_E2190Shortly afterwards we had our packed lunch with this view!  P1110662P1040377I was definitely feeling light headed through the altitude and we decided to descend on the bus with yet more fine views. My ambitions to climb Everest are on hold!

The Eagles Nest was an unforgettable experience and again we had been lucky with the weather, although my trusted guide takes much credit as she had made the effort to take me to these places whilst the weather was holding.

There was no time to reflect as we headed towards Berchtesgaden, renown for being a good base for hiking.

I decided it should become renown for its ice-cream cafes. It was a lovely mid-afternoon stop in warm weather and a chance to recharge batteries in what had already been an awesome day. The biggest problem was choosing which ice-cream to have.

IMG_E2192IMG_E2194Victoria then broke the news that we had time to head for Austria and Salzburg!!!! She had warned me to take my passport as there are occasional checks since the migration issues. The thought of ending up as an illegal entrant whilst on holiday concentrated the mind. We arrived in Salzburg at 4.15pm.


The Hohensalzburg Castle dominates the city and is one of the largest in Europe.  Salzburg is the fourth largest city in Austria. The city centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (since 1996). The architecture is baroque. It was the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. It was the setting for the musical play and film The Sound of Music, which when I sang to Victoria, ‘The hills are alike with the sound of music”, she didn’t recognise it. Must be her age or mine or my singing!

P1040397P1040398P1040399In front of the castle we found a bench to listen to a concert in warming sun. It was very atmospheric with horses passing by. What a finish to the day!


P1110682P1110683P1110684I could have lingered there for hours but we had a long journey back to Tegernsee and I  started to think of food. I asked Victoria if she knew of any restaurants she could recommend on the way back. Needless to say she came up with the goods!  We found a picturesque walk back to the car.


We left Salzburg at about 5.30pm.

What I hadn’t anticipated was that Jesus would need to help us find the restaurant. We had been going along some winding roads in the country in the middle of nowhere and to be honest I wondered whether we were going to find the restaurant. Victoria suddenly brought the car to a screeching halt in front of Jesus. With no sat nav this was the next best thing. I think Jesus pointed to the map and told her where to go!!!

P1110693It was a fabulous choice of restaurant in the middle of nowhere and of course I had to have traditional soup, wiener schnitzel (breaded veal cutlet) followed by pancakes and ice-cream. Not forgetting the beer of course. Victoria is very cheap to run as unlike me she rarely has a pudding. It was she who said I am not allowed to diet in Bavaria! I would never be able to find the restaurant again. IMG_2213IMG_2212IMG_2214e16ebd74-f678-4e19-9d60-117adb649caf A fabulous end to a fabulous day. 

Miles Walked 6



Day 3 – ’10 Days of Walking in Bavaria’, To the Top of Germany, 9718 Feet (2962 Metres), Altitude Sickness, Mittenwald.

Post 256: 12 May 2018, The top of Zugspitze – Germany’s Highest Mountain,  A Walk around Lake Eibsee and a Walk around Mittenwald.

I was somewhat surprised when Victoria said we would leave for the top of Germany early in the morning at about 8am. Clearly my ‘training’ of her during her 10 Days in the Yorkshire last September was paying off when much to her horror we would leave at 7.30am in the morning and not return to 9.45pm in order to explore Yorkshire! Given that she was on holiday from work for 9 1/2 days to guide me around, I was impressed she would miss a few lie ins, which is what most young people crave for when working. She always said she could get up early if she had to – a big mistake saying that to me. On this bright sunny day with the top of Germany our destination she simply had to.

‘It’s the early bird that catches the worm’ we say in Yorkshire and in Bavaria they have a similar expression  and of course it means you avoid the traffic too.  Also as it was Mothers’s Day we had some flowers to drop off. P1110471The location where Victoria left the flowers had amazing views of the Alpspitze mountain at 2628 metres (8,622 feet).P1040255P1040252P1040256We passed through Garmisch -Partenkirchen,P1110472which became known around the world when the Winter Olympics were held there in 1936. There was still relatively little traffic at just before 10.00am on a Saturday.

Other mountain scenery appeared as we drove further towards Zugspitze.

We continued our drive to the cable car park, near the Eibsee Lake, to look up to the cable car and summit at 2,962 metres (9718 feet).P1110894P1040263P1040264P1040265

It was going to be an interesting ride as the cable car broke 3 world records! I had already been on Europe’s steepest cablecar ride at Mount Loen in Norway but this looked steep too! P1110480Each car holds up to 150 people. Cosy!P1040277 Having beaten the crowds that would later appear later we were soon off – only 10 minutes to the top. P1110484P1110482The views of Lake Eibsee (the green lake) were stunning. P1110488The views either side and up were also breathtaking. Going over the huge single tower caused some wobble and I had to grab onto a support.

Finally, the summit was reached and the views were all expansive, 400 mountain tops and 4 countries, Italy, Switzerland, Austria and Germany.P1110503P1110504P1110505P1110506P1110507P1110508P1110511P1110512 At some point we went for a coffee in the cafe/restuarant. Children were playing in the snow and people were having photos taken on the summit, which was starting to get enveloped in mist. P1040289P1040299fe7d63c8-edd4-4519-9f5f-98b8fbdc0106

We then crossed a few borders, including passing into Austria, with no signs of border control!P1110513P1110516I was glad to be descending as I was starting to feel light headed due to altitude sickness – the first time in my life. Or was it due to the beer and gin and tonic the night before?

We then had to descend to the glacier on another cable car. There was lots of fun going on and loud music!

There was also a chapel.

Finally, we did some photograph posing amongst the glorious mountains and scenery.P1110539P1110535P1110541

It was then a train ride through a mountain tunnel back to the car. A simply stunning trip and at 45 Euros superb value (prices may go up in the peak season). I got my Zuspritze mug to remind me when back at home when drinking tea of this super trip. We had avoided the worst of the crowds and now Victoria had a quiet walk around Lake Eibsee planned for me. Not much time to catch my breathe.

Towards the end of the holiday I said to Victoria:

“Where had the time gone?”

She said “We left it on the street”.

I think with hindsight:

“We may have left it on the cable car!”

We had our packed lunch on a beach on the lake looking towards the mountains. It was as though we had been transported to Canada on a time machine! Simply idyllic. Pollen on the lake caused mustard coloured effects against the backdrop of the greenness of the lake.

P1110546P1110548P1110550P1110553The day was not over and we headed to the village of Mittenwald, which used to have a trade route from Italy passing through it since Roman times. It is surrounded by the Karwendal range of mountains which is part of the northern, calcareous Alps. It consists of several chains of mountains characterised by precipitous, steeply soaring, bare rock walls and peaks most of which reach a height between 2,000 and 2,800 metres ( 6562 and 9183 feet).

Lets now take a walk through this village of great art and colour – quite unbelievable when I think how I used to hate painting the outside of my house before PVC windows arrived. The beginnings of the local violin-making trade can traced back to the 17th century and Matthew Klutz (1653-1743), a pupil of the famous Nicola Amati. A violin school was founded in 1853.

A traditional wedding passed us by.

The interior of churches are opulent and this St-Peter-und-Paul-Kirche with its Gothic Tower is no exception:


The painted houses were staggering in their detail.

After leaving  Mittenwald we then had some more fine scenery.

What a way to finish a day that had touched all the senses. It was time to head back to ‘base’ with my trusted driver, guide and friend for a few beers and gin and tonics.

When in Rome do as the Romans do and when in Bavaria do as the Bavarians do.

Miles Walked 12 













Day 2 – ’10 Days of Walking in Bavaria’, 7.30am Start on Holiday, Fish from the Lake, Keswick and Derwentwater on Steroids. A Waterfall Walk but No Early Bath.

Post 255: 11 May 2018, Tegernsee Walk and a Walk from Wildbath Kreuth to Wolfsshlucht

Victoria was at work in the morning and so I had some free time. I had planned to walk into Tegernsee and go to the Tourist Information Office. However, I woke up very early and decided first to see if I could get some dawn shots down by the lake. The reflections on the lake were stunning at that time.



The mist on the Wallberg mountain was ethereal. P1040242P1040239Every perspective seemed to be quite photogenic. It was an early start at just before 7.30am but worth it.

P1040226P1040234P1040241P1040243I then went back to my flat to have breakfast before returning to walk to the town. The first settlement to be founded in the valley was a Benedictine monastery near Tegernsee , established in the 8th century.

The older part of town is a delight and you see some very individual cars.


IMG_2108Ice-cream is very tasty here too!


The former Tegernsee monastery (founded 746) was the most importance Benedictine Abbey in Upper Bavaria until 1803. The building is now owned by the descendants of the dukes of Wittelsbach. The catholic parish church St. Quirinus was a monastery church until 1803. Today the historic building is home to a restaurant with a distillery, the famous Herzogliche Braustuberi Tegernsee, the Herzoglich Bayerische Bauhaus Tegernsee and gymnasium. P1110427P1110429There are boat trips on the lake.P1110426Birds and fish are in abundance in and around the lake


and later in the holiday we had fish caught in the lake, bought from a lakeside fish shop and cooked for me by Victoria. Accompanied by the traditional beer – it was delicious.


There is boating on the lake and some lovely properties overlooking it. P1110437P1110435There are also lots of benches. It was now warm enough for shorts. IMG_E2113Tergensee reminds me of Keswick and Derwentwater, but on steroids!

After Victoria returned from work we had lunch. A typical lunch would consist of local cheeses, meats, salad and bread. Also some beer. All very tasty, healthy and fresh.IMG_E2087We then headed out to the nearby Krueth area, starting a walk at Wildbad Kreuth. It is not as bad as it sounds as bad means bath. P1110893We passed some buildings which used to be a bath house but is now used for occasional meetings of the Christian Social Union of BavariaP1110443P1110442We diverted to the memorial to King Max I. JosephP1110445

P1110447We then had a delightful walk to a waterfall, even though occasionally getting wet feet crossing a stream as I only had trainers on (whose idea was that?), not my waterproof boots. P1040245P1040246P1040247

On our descent we had a sumptuous cake and tea at a cafe at Siebenhutten. P1110449

P1110465P1110467A delightful walk well guided by Victoria. 

Miles Walked 11.8

Next blog – going to the top of Germany’s highest mountain Zugspitze at 9718 feet. 


Day 1 – ’10 Days of Walking in Bavaria’, Land of Beer, Auf Wiedersehen Pet, Arcadia, a Double Rainbow or Was it a Double – Gin and Tonic and Schnapps? How to get a Yorkshire Passport and become an Honorary Yorkshire Lass.

Post 254: 10 May 2018, Manchester to Munich and Tegernsee

My alarm went off at 4.45am and I rubbed my eyes thinking what on earth was I doing getting up at this unearthly hour. Then I remembered I had an early train to catch from York station at 5.55am and a plane to catch to Munich from Manchester, with the eventual aim of getting to a place called Tegernsee in Upper Bavaria.  I had never heard of this place apart from a German walking friend Victoria (trail name) who was meeting me and providing accommodation and lived in the region. My Dorling Kingsley Guide book said it was within easy reach of the bustling capital of Munich and an upper-class recreation ground. Now I have never been to one of those so when Victoria confirmed that she had been to the supermarket to get some beer and gin and tonic, I thought maybe it will not be so much a walking holiday, but more a beer drinking holiday. I had heard the Bavarians like their beer. 98884d42-faa4-434c-b5f6-566a8bdd3543But first I had to get there and on driving to York station my first problem arose – geese! They were blocking the road until a caring drunk came along and moved them on. It is not only Bavarians that can drink beer. This chap must have been drinking until 5 o’clock in the morning.IMG_E2050It was a good job I had allowed plenty of spare time to get to the station. At least my train arrived on time at 5.55am. IMG_2052 I arrived at Manchester Airport at 7.40am but my flight was not until 10.45am. Nothing like being early. I was determined not to miss my plane or holiday. I checked in my luggage and went through security and the security guard asked me to empty all the contents of my rucksack and take off everything but my ‘underpants’ (well that’s what it felt like). After filling 4 trays with the contents of my rucksack, 2 cameras, compeed, a first aid kit, a book or two, items of clothing (e.g. waterproof and body warmer) for the cold and wet of 6am in the morning, passport, money, travel documents, guidebook, watch, fit bit, spare glasses, mat for picnics in the countryside, etc etc. I said to him I thought I was travelling light. He smiled with one of those grins that say – right I will get this one and was not impressed. I had forgotten the golden rule of going through airport security – never joke with them.

I felt like a criminal being stripped of all my identity. Of course with all my outdoor gear I have enough pockets (I once counted over 50) to cause suspicion. They called in reinforcements as I had not emptied all my pockets. How could I empty all my pockets – there were just too many. The lady quickly went through the contents of one of my plastic bags I had left in my rucksack – she didn’t know what a plastic compass was and probably thought is was a dangerous device. I am probably now on an airport high risk register.

IMG_E2046I had bought a new rucksack for the trip as I didn’t want to let the country down by taking my old rucksack, which I have used for over 28 years and was showing signs of wear and tear. I couldn’t turn up in an upper-class recreation region looking like I had just come from off the Moors.

Somehow they let me though, but I had to re-pack everything carefully to fit it all in. I thought one tray had gone missing until they must have got so fed up of waiting for me they had moved it to a packing area. Of course they don’t tell you this.

I found somewhere to sit by the window, but there was no sign of Lufthansa who I was booked in with. Only Easy Jet with a 22kg bag allowance plastered on the side. Had I gone to the wrong terminal?P1040207Eventually what looked like my plane arrived. IMG_E2055I had decided to go for extra leg room at extra cost.  However, that meant I was the one that, in an emergency, had to open the emergency door and throw it out of the plane when asked! If they ask me in German I wouldn’t have clue as to what they are saying. Auf Wiedersehen Pet is my limit. ‘Goodbye Pet’  as my last words would however seem appropriate.

Given that I am not the most practical person and hadn’t bought a screwdriver with me to open the door I thought this was bad judgement on behalf of the airline.  Perhaps I should have gone with Easy Jet. IMG_2056I was soon up in the clouds having my neatly provided wrapped cheese sandwich and cup of tea. I now felt on holiday and about to embark on an adventure. My German walking friend and guide had already told me we could go to the top of the highest mountain in Germany when I had noticed she lived near it and I had asked if there was a cable car. I am not up to climbing up to over 9,00O feet.

We crossed the North Sea at some point into foreign lands as shown in the photograph but, despite coming out of the EU, we didn’t have to show our passport at that border in the air.

The engines changed their tone and I guessed we were descending to land or about to crash. My first impression of Germany is that everything is in neat orderly lines, including the fields. This definitely wasn’t Yorkshire with stone walls, roads and paths that do anything but go straight.

It was not the best time to recall the Munich Air Disaster, which happened on 6 February 1958 when many of the talented Manchester Busby Babes were killed when their plane crashed at Munich Airport in snow. I had just started following Aston Villa at the age of 5, just after they won the FA Cup in 1957. The Munich Air Disaster was traumatic for a 5 year football fan and probably put me off flying for years.On landing it was very different from the footage of the disaster.  Munich had changed!

IMG_E2073I seemed to walk miles to find my luggage (was this a new long-distance walk?). The airport cleaning bill must be massive as everywhere was spotless. I then arrived at what appeared to be a train station. Crikey I must have gone wrong somewhere? I asked a member of staff where the luggage claim place was and he said get on the train thinking another idiot has just landed!

IMG_2074Next thing is which station do I get off at? Berlin, Hamburg or whatever? Fortunately there was only one station I think. When in doubt follow the crowd.

I was finally reunited with my case and breathed a sigh of relief. Now all I had to do was find my German walking friend, driver and guide. Following exit signs for another 20 miles, I emerged to a throng of people – no sign of her. Then this attractive young lady headed towards me dressed as though she going to a wedding. Was it Victoria? It looked like her but she was not dressed as when I met her in September 2016 at Pwll Deri Youth Hostel in Wales with walking boots on. Or when I gave her a 10 day guided walking tour of Yorkshire in September 2017. Yes it was her and after changing greetings and loading the car she drove me on the autobahn past the Bayern Munich football ground. I knew I was in Germany now. This was confirmed when numerous cars passed us at over 100mph.

After leaving the autobahn the scenery changed and then mountains started to appear in the distance. Victoria already had a little walk by ‘her Lake Tegernsee‘ planned as a warm up as to what was to come. P1110384P1110386Tegernsee was on the signs and maps. Not far now. P1110381P1110391P1110390The sun was out and the views magnificent and so it was time for some ‘holiday’ posing. I have to say that the Bavarian welcome at the airport in traditional Bavarian dress, beats me welcoming people in York in jeans or Rohan Outdoor Clothing! Perhaps I should purchase  Lederhosen BreechesIMG_E2079P1110379

P1040211Victoria also explained that she has her own mountain ‘Mount Fuji’ seen above and below, actually called Wallberg.  She thought we could climb it during my 10 day stay.  At 5650 feet (1722 metres) I smiled at her thinking ‘in your dreams’.  The highest I have ever climbed is England’s highest mountain Scafell Pike at 3208 feet on the 21st October 1990. That had been tiring and I was now 28 years older.  Of course I didn’t let her know of my doubts. British stiff upper lip and all that. P1040214There was just time to take a few more photographs as home-made strawberry cake was promised at ‘base’ in  what appeared to be Arcadia.  I had landed not just in Germany but on my feet in wonderland.

P1110385P1040213P1040211P1040212P1040215Victoria had not finished showing me around yet and took me to see a church and the council offices in Tegernsee. When the council offices look like that you know you have arrived somewhere special.

Arriving at my accommodation, the home-made strawberry cake matched the scenery and in addition tasted delicious. I had already been given strict instructions that dieting is not allowed in Bavaria. Who was I to argue? Version 2The day came to an end with a spectacular double rainbow in front of ‘Mount Fuji”. I have only seen this phenomenon a handful  of times in my life. I was in a different world and over the next days I was to find it got better and better…………………………..

Especially when the double gin and tonic and schnapps appeared.

P1040218P1110394And what does Victoria get for all this? A Yorkshire Passport and a Tour de Yorkshire hat and hand clappers.

Also the honorary title of Yorkshire Lass.


Miles Walked 2 – mostly around Munich Airport!