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Post 239: The Inn Way, 13 March 2018, Rievaulx Bridge to Helmsley

“The cars broken down” Celia, my wife, said on the telephone on Saturday when we were in the Midlands visiting our two 95 year old mothers for mother’s day. “The clutch is not working”.

“Well telephone Volvo Assistance”, I said from some two miles away at my mothers.

“What’s the number?”, she said. “I am in an awkward position at the Co-op.”

“Well put the hazard warners on if its dangerous.”

“There is a card with the number under the CD box and one in the glove box (for belt and braces). I will get a taxi and come to meet you. ”

By the time I got to Celia and the mother-in-law, the car (not the mother in law) was about to go on the lorry loader to be taken to the nearest Volvo garage in Wolverhampton.

We then got a taxi to the mother-in-laws a couple of miles where we were staying.

It was the first time in about 17 years that a Volvo had let me down. The last time was after dropping my daughter off at Northumbria University when my old Volvo 440 ground to a halt under the Angel of the North, due to an alternator problem. The AA had no problem finding us and took us home with the car on his lorry loader.

This was somewhat different as my car was only 15 months old and not meant to break down and I had planned to finish the Inn Way in Yorkshire on Tuesday. We had already postponed once due to the Beast from the East. This was an EMERGENCY.

I got onto Volvo Assistance and on Monday they had a courtesy car at the door. BMW 2 series automatic sport. Not a Volvo V40, but I could make do.

We travelled back to Yorkshire in pouring rain all the way, but I knew the forecast was good for Tuesday and the Inn Way. I also knew by now that a new clutch was required for my car and parts had to be ordered by the garage. I had not needed a new clutch since an old Volvo 340 had needed one about 30 years ago!

So we arrived at Helmsley at about 9.30am to start the last walk on The Inn Way.

This walk, which we had started on the 23rd November last year had been one of the most challenging I had done as we had walked throughout the winter over and through the North York Moors. I had fallen in two bogs, having only fallen in one other bog in the rest of my life. We had encountered deep snow, ice, cold winds, overflowing streams to cross, hills, fog, mist, paths that weren’t there, Carol and Sid the Yorkshireman had both had falls, we had found new routes and paths we hadn’t done before in order to get back to the cars, deep puddles blocking paths, mud and more mud. It had tested our outdoor gear (e.g. waterproofs, insulation, my 4 hats on once occasion, and spikes), knowledge, energy levels, map reading and experience to the maximum. During this time nature has revealed itself with great beauty and power with Supermoons and Super Snow and Cold.

I had loved it!

Today was to be, as in the Tour de France’s last day, our celebration. We knew we would finish the walk and this was a day to really enjoy ourselves.

The forecast was good and much warmer and sunnier than previous walks. Spring had arrived although perhaps briefly. We soon passed Helmsley Castle just after the entrance to Duncombe Park.

Sir Charles Duncombe, a wealthy London banker and Lord Mayor of London, bought Helmsley Castle and its estate in 1689 on the death of the Duke of Buckingham.

We passed the Ionic Temple.Ascending there were good views back towards Helmsley and the walled gardens of the castle, which are well worth a visit.  Carol had her first tree hug of the day. 

We reached Duncombe House, which was built in 1713 by Thomas Browne who later adopted the Duncombe name. The house is occupied by Lord Feversham and is open to members of the public.

After passing a tree felling area we reached Griff Lodge and The Cleveland Way and The North of England Way. A helicopter flew over us just as in the Tour de France! Were they filming us?! Rievualx Abbey could then be seen in its magnificent valley sitting. The monks were not stupid in picking this sheltered, picturesque location.

 We then reached Rievaulx Bridge, which was where we needed to resume The Inn Way. Repairs were being carried out to presumably where cars and lorries had skidded into it during the bad weather.We carried on past Ashberry Farm to have our coffee and banana break at a bench with wonderful views in energising spring like weather.

All that remained was to walk back three miles along The Cleveland Way and The North of England Way to Helmsley for our celebratory lunch at Mannions. 

Carol and Sid the Yorkshireman were very happy with the delicious food. Helmsley is a delightful market town to visit out of season, but in the summer can suffer from its popularity with many people visiting.

All that remained was to have a final photo call in the market place to finish a fine challenging walk.

Now where did I put my 1991 hat? 

We couldn’t find it anywhere so we drove back along parts of the route, but with no luck.

However, when we got home I found it deep in one of the many Rohan pockets I have. “Age shall not weary them”.

Any typos or other mistakes are not due to gin!!!!

Miles Walked 8.1

Steps 18,000

Calories Burned 3,300

Daily Mileage

Day 1 – 12.8

Day 2 – 13.4

Day 3 – 14

Day 4 – 14.5

Day 5 – 14

Day 6 – 13.2

Day 7 – 11.8

Day 8 – 10.2

Day 9 – 11.2

Day 10 – 12.9

Day 11 – 12.6

Day 12 – 12.1

Day 13 – 13.1

Day 14 – 10.5

Day 15 – 10.2

Day 16 – 9.4

Day 17 – 8.1

Total Miles Walked 211

It is possible to walk The Inn Way as a linear walk and reduce the total mileage to an 89 mile walk. 

Who Reads the Secret Diaries?

65% of readers are women

34% of readers are men

1% are ?

The biggest age group reading are aged 45-54 – 19% women.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Post 238: 5 March 2018, The Inn Way, Cold Kirby to Rievaulx  Bridge.

As for most people in this country, last week had been very strange indeed as Britain was hit by weather unlike anything I or others had known in this country before. It was the coldest weather on record in March. Then the Beast from the East polar weather met Storm Emma with Atlantic blizzards to dump even more snow on the country. ‘A Weather Bomb’ and a ‘Perfect Freeze. Much of the  snow has been different to the norm in Britain in that it was powdery ‘ski snow’ which, when the winds came, moved about and formed huge drifts blocking roads and paths.

It must have been bad as we hadn’t done any proper walks on the North York Moors since the 22 February – a week and a half before. I had tried to stop myself from ‘seizing up’ by going on walks around my village, but even on those short flat walks the biting cold and strong winds were unlike anything I had experienced, except for being on board the deck of a ship off Norway at night in the middle of Winter, waiting for the Northern Lights to appear.  It is the sort of cold that ‘hurts’ and drains energy after about 30 minutes. On the Moors it could have been fatal so we wisely avoided going there. Doctors had said that anyone aged over 55 shouldn’t do snow clearance as breating in the extreme cold could affect their lungs and during activities cause a fatality. This advice came too late for me as I had already cleared snow from my drive and paths! I was not sure what they would have said about walking up and down over hills in the cold.

As soon as the temperatures increased and the thaw began we decided to head out to the appropriately named Cold Kirby to continue on The Inn Way.

We knew the roads around the Cold Kirby area had been closed for a few days and when we left the main road at Sutton Bank, we immediately came across a ROAD CLOSED sign. However, the road seemed mostly clear, albeit with snow piled up either side. A tractor was removing the last vestiges of snow off the road and we asked the driver if the road was now passable to Cold Kirby. He thought it was.

So continuing our journey we came across some interesting views!

We arrived at Cold Kirby to have an impromptu ‘Kia Meet’After slipping and sliding a few weeks ago on the Moors, Sid the Yorkshireman had decided to splash out on winter tyres and wheels to add to his 4 wheel drive Kia. He did this just before The Beast from the East arrived and so there is no doubt that he is to blame for the bad weather. 

He had travelled half way round Yorkshire to pick up wheels and tyres. His winter tyres are the ones on the left and the other Kia’s tyres are the ones on the right – quite a difference in tread, not to mention that the winter tyre compound gives more grip in cold weather.

Carol posed in front of the Church of St Michael (see previous blog) and the mist that entombed the Moors.

We had an interesting start to our walk and thought that if the next 9 miles were going to be like this it could be a really tough day!We then had a tricky steep descent into Flassen Dale at which point Carol decided to put her spikes on. I already had mine on and Sid the Yorkshireman didn’t.

Here we encountered some forest workers who, incredibly, informed us they had worked through all the bad weather the previous week!!! Snow Heroes. 

We thought the Euro Forest sign was amusing and wondered what it would be called after BREXIT.We ascended the other side of the valley. Much of the tree clearing was related to pheasant shooting, which is widespread in this area and brings a lot of income to it. We arrived at Pond Farm, Scawton where the sheep were very ‘friendly’ or more likely very hungry. After a coffee and banana break we visited the unique Norman Church of St Mary which is little changed since it was built by the monks of Byland Abbey in 1146.In the porch there is a memorial to five crew members of a Halifax bomber that crashed nearby in 1945. There are also the remains of a carving. The font cover is unusual. We descended to Nettle Dale where The Cleveland Way crossed our path. It is the spaghetti junction of a number of paths.

Small springs emerged in the area. There are some rare ducks.And delightful treesShortly afterwards we reached Reins Farm where there were free range children We descended to Bow Bridge over the River Rye, which leads to Rievaulx Abbey. In the mist it was very atmospheric as we walked towards the Abbey for a lunch stop. 

This imposing Cistercian abbey was established in 1132 by twelve French monks and named after the valley Rievaulx, meaning valley of the Rye.  St Aelred, the third Abbot, developed the abbey into being largest monastic establishment in England, with over 500 lay brothers and 140 choir boys.

After lunch we continued along the road past the Abbey.

We then came across a resting place of a good Canadian walking friend of mine Penny, who will be forever missed, will forever be young and will not grow old like the rest of us.  It would have given her great pleasure to see the snowdrops and celandine that were growing in the vicinity, topped off by the snow. At Rievaulx Bridge we left The Inn Way to follow The Cleveland Way and The North of England Way back towards the car. The nearby house was built in 1885. We then entered Nettle Dale again as, at long last, the sun appeared. We then had a long and gradual, but tiring ascent along the secluded and snowy Blind Side and Tanker Dales, with springs appearing.

At the top we came across a desolate field and some unusual sheep with delightful faces. The snow created some delightful effects. Arriving at Cold Kirby there some unusual sights. Whatever is a Penny Farthing doing there?  Also the cow is not real.

At least back in Cold Kirby the fog had cleared.Finally, after the walk, I couldn’t resist stopping off at Sutton Bank to admire the views.

A fine end to the day.

Miles Walked 9.4

Steps 21,000

Calories Burnt 3,200

 

 

 

 

 

Post 237: 22 February 2018, The Inn Way, Hamilton Drove Road to Cold Kirby. 

It was some relief that one of my blog readers, who makes home-made jam, was able to re-supply me. It is made to a ‘strict specification’ that it is not too runny and does not ‘soak’ into my home-made roll. Gloopy jam is ideal.

Now you may wonder what is so important about jam. Well when you get to my ‘bus pass age’ you need all the help you can get on these walks and jam is great at providing fairly immediate energy after lunch. Cheese, bacon, ham, chicken etc etc tend to take too long to digest and do not give energy when it is most needed.

We arrived at Cold Kirby at about 9.00am and it was a balmy 1 degrees. Cold Kirby is often much colder, hence the name, due its exposed location.

St Michael’s Church dates from the twelve century and was rebuilt in 1841. it was originally ministered by the Order of the Knights Templars, a religious group that supported pilgrims and knights during the Holy Land Crusades in the 12th-14th centuries.

Leaving Cold Kirby we soon came across some majestic restored stone walls.

After passing Murton Heights fine views emerged

The Easterside Hills near Hawnby and beyond, from where we had walked in previous weeks, could be seen.

After a coffee and banana break below Noodle East we ascended to what remains of it, with great views back.

Noodle East 

We reached the Hamilton Drove Road to rejoin The Inn Way. We then joined the Cleveland Way to follow it to High Paradise Farm (see previous blog for opening times for refreshments etc). We were now on the Mosaic Walk where one of the many mosaics along the 36 miles route was in evidence. This is a circular route from Sutton Bank.

Just beyond a special gate Sid the Yorkshireman and Alf posed where James Herriot was photographed for the front of his biography. With no dog, Alf just made dog noises.

Near High Barn lunch was beckoning, but due to a cold easterly which was being sucked over and down the ridge we carried onto the nearby quarry for some shelter.

Rejoining the Cleveland Way along the escarpment the expansive views were stunning.

It was a bit further along from here at Sutton Bank where Alf Wight (James Herriot) said ‘The Finest View in England’ was. On a foggy day you have to make do with me as a German walking friend once found out. Not quite the same!

We reached Whitestone Cliff and with rays of light the views were pretty impressive.

William Wordsworth and his new wife Mary Hutchinson watched the sunset from the escarpment on their wedding night.

“Every day is different up here  and often the far hills are dreamlike with distance, but there are other times, on the frosty mornings or after a night’s wind, when you can almost reach out and touch the flat top of Penhill, when you can look down Wensleydale and peep into the entrance of Coverdale with the long summit of Great Whernside rearing above its neighbours. On those days the mighty plain seems like a narrow valley between the two ranges of hills. (J. Herriot ‘James Herriot’s Yorkshire 1979).

I converted todays view to black and white.

Gormire Lake was far below us.

Alf below was rightly proud to announce that he, with a colleague, had carried the oak bench from Sutton Bank (nearly a mile) and fixed it in position (as below) above Garbutt Wood. We decided to give Alf an honorary hero award.

There is a tiny memorial plaque on the bench. It is said that from here, when steam trains were in use, you could follow a train all the way from York to Darlington. 

The Inn Way leaves the escarpment at this point to head towards Dialstone Farm. Sid the Yorkshireman got quite pedantic as to which gate we should go through even though they were only about 100 yards apart. By the time he had finished pontificating on the matter we were ready to throw him off Whitestone Cliff,  just where a knight on horseback was reputedly lured over the cliff on his white horse, by the Devil dressed as the Abbott of Rievaulx. 

We passed Dialstone Farm, which was once an inn on the drover’s road. From the 17th century The Hambleton Races used to take place here and were bigger than York or Newmarket races. It is still a training area for horses.

If we didn’t find the Devil today on the escarpment, we did find he or his friends work on the final mile road section back to Cold Kirby. We managed to fill a bag of rubbish to take for recycling that had been thrown mainly out of cars, as well as an abandoned road sign and kitchen fan. Unbelievable.

A sign in the village summed it all up!

Apart from the last mile it was a fine walk. Somewhat flatter and easier than many of our previous winter walks on The Inn Way 

Miles Walked 10.2

Steps 23,000

Calories Burnt 3,300

 

 

 

 

 

Post 236: The Inn Way, 12 February 2018, High Banniscue to Hambleton Drove Road

Carol had succumbed to a cold virus so there was only Sid the Yorkshireman and myself when we arrived at the recently closed Hawnby Inn. A sad sight indeed. However, the post lady informed us later that there were plans to re-open it, but it could be up to two years. Many of the residents of this upper part of Hawnby worked at the inn and so it was now very quiet there as they looked for work elsewhere.

Hawnby is named after a Scandinavian farmer called Halmi and has a lower half and an upper half. Historically, it has been a strong Methodist village and John Wesley came to the village in 1757.

We headed east along the lane from the pub car park and then headed north-east then north on a delightful footpath and bridleway past Little Banniscue and Low Banniscue. The snowdrops were a delight.

There was much woodland clearing taking place.

We reached Crows Nest and then headed south-east to High Banniscue to resume The Inn Way. With the sun out there were lovely views towards Nova Scotia Farm and Hawnby Hill.

At this point I came across what would make a fine emblem for the North York Moors Winter Olympics. You can see the ‘Yorkshire Olympian’ if you look closely. The ‘sport’ would be Winter Cross Country Walking.  

Our winter walking on The Inn Way has at times felt like a Winter Olympics and we had encountered much ice, snow, mud and winds on our walks. Indeed J.S Fletcher in his book The Enchanting North 1908 said about this area:

“The dales that stretch away in various directions from Rievaulx are as lonely as they are picturesque. In summer they are solitary; in winter, almost impossible to traverse. One may follow such roads or paths as there are along them for considerable distances without encountering a human being or seeing more than an occasional farmstead, far away from the world. But their beauty no one will doubt who cares to explore their recesses”

Even 110 years later in 2018 there are many walks where we have not met anyone else. There are also some days in winter when the moors become almost impossible to traverse!

Further along there were some other interesting ‘puddle ice creations’. Can you see the womb like animal figures in the middle?

Back to reality we had some lane walking back to Hawnby.

Where we stopped in what was probably the best coffee and banana stop of the whole Inn Way walk. Built in 1909, presumably as a horse stop, it was very sheltered, warm and sunny.

Leaving the village we soon crossed Hawnby Bridge over the River Rye.

We then climbed around Coombe Hill with fabulous retrospective views.

Before descending towards Arden Hall, situated in the beautiful Thorodale wooded valley.  The building dates from the 17th century although it sits on a Benedictine nunnery which dates from the 12th century. Some remnants remain in the hall including a medieval fireplace. A pond known as Nun’s Well can sometimes be spotted through the trees.

A steep long ascent followed to join the Dale Town Common bridleway, with superb views back towards Hawnby and the moors beyond.

A little snow remainedIt was cooler and breezier on the tops and the sheep huddled together near their food. We started looking for a sheltered lunch spot. After nearly missing our bridleway at a fork we reached the Hamilton Drove Road and as Paradise was closed we settled for lunch in the shelter of a wall.

We saw a few casual walkers without rucksacks who had just walked from the nearby car park for a breath of fresh air.

The Hamilton Drove Road, along which marches the Cleveland Way National Trail, was an important drover’s road between Edinburgh and York, Malton and other market towns in the South of England. This mainly occurred between the 17th and early 19th centuries when livestock were moved to the south. The road was previously used by Roman legions.

Having had our lunch in a cool spot, we left The Inn Way to find a route back to the car along the tops, where ice puddles were clinging on, making delightful patterns.

At least the adders would be hibernating.

The Bilsdale mast could be seen in the far distance and the views were 360 degrees. We descended to Sunny Bank Farm where our destination Hawnby could be seen in the distance, below Hawnby Hill and Easterside Hill. A little further on there was a fine view of Hawnby Bridge and its surrounds. It was designed by the famous architect John Carr.We crossed over the River Rye again at Dalicar Bridge where, whilst I was taking this photograph, Sid the Yorkshireman saw a kingfisher.

We made a small diversion to the 12th Century All Saints Church decorated all around with snowdrops.

One of the stained glassed windows commemorates those who were lost in the Great Way 1914-18 and the numbers were high as the local vicar, known as the fighting parson of Hawnby, encouraged local men to join up.

It had indeed been a fine walk in good weather, but we mustn’t tell Carol as she will feel she has missed out! 

Sid the Yorkshireman decided on a ‘country drive’ back to York taking in Caydale Mill Ford. It was more like a river running down the road!

Last week he cleaned his boots in the river, this time it was his car! 

A video is available on You Tube by searching under david maughan and looking for my photograph. Alternatively it is on Facebook.

Miles Walked 10.5

Steps 22,000

Calories Burnt 3,100

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Post 235: The Inn Way,  8 February 2018, Black Holes to High Banniscue

On the B1257, car parking for where we wanted to start the walk was a bit limited. There was a pull in near Spout House and as it seemed unoccupied we decided to park there. It was only when we got back we realised that it was occupied.

 The present Sun Inn next door was opened in 1914.

To the right of the pub is the gravestone of Bobbie Dowson, a famous local huntsman as well as cricketer of the Scout House team, who died in 1902. The local vicar refused to have the headstone in the graveyard because of the hunting motifs carved into it.

There is a much older Sun Inn to left of the current Sun Inn. This cruck-framed cottage was built in 1550 and is reputedly the oldest house in the North York Moors. It was originally a farm tenant’s dwelling, before becoming a licensed inn in 1714. For 200 years it provided refreshments to locals and travellers before closing in 1914 when the new and current Sun Inn opened.   In the 1970s the National Park Committee restored the old Sun Inn as it was falling down. Many of the original features, fixtures and fittings remain.We soon started following a route to grouse butt 3 and 7, which is where we finished on The Inn Way on Sunday. We passed by Hollin Bower Farm and above Low Crosset Farm, it getting cooler and more misty as we ascended.  An ascent onto the open moorland followed where the route finding got very tricky to say the least. The bridleway we were following soon disappeared and Sid the Yorkshireman headed off across the heather after leaving a track which was not on my older map.

Confusing or what?

This got worse when we found a triangle of tracks, which was on Sid the Yorkshireman’s newer map but not mine.

In such a situation and with the mist coming down I got my compass out to try and determine where we were. The grouse butts should have been in sight but not only are they hidden from the grouse they were also hidden from us.

Just as we were about to give up and head back along the track we came across grouse butt 4 and 6. More confusion as to why there were two numbers? We worked out that the number used depends on which way you are shooting.  I vaguely remembered the one we wanted just after Carol had fallen was 3 and ?

We headed along the line of the grouse butts and found 3 and 7 and the faint path nearby on which Carol had fallen (see previous post 234). It was time to regroup for the second time in this butt and have a banana and coffee break.

Eventually we resumed on The Inn Way route  before it disappeared again and so we took the clear track instead which ran parallel with it. We soon dropped below the mist with fine views along Bilsdale. Our next destination was Easterside Hill in the very far distance in the second photograph! After a long muddy descent and ascent and lunch, we reached Low Ewe Cote farm which, instead of ewes, had a herd of cows in the yard.

The farmer kindly came out to escort us through the yard. We got talking and he explained how he was making the holiday accommodation below which would be placed on his son’s farm further down the valley, in the process saving himself thousands of pounds. He promised to let me have further details when it was finished. In the meantime you can find it on Facebook under Lockton Shepherd Huts. Should be a great place to stay!

We continued to High Banniscue Farm where we turned off The Inn Way to find a route back to my car.  We passed Easterside Hill.

Eventually we reached Crow Nest surrounded by snowdrops.

Then a descent and ascent along a B.O.A.T, with Bumper Castle below us, led to a grouse deciding which route to follow at the junction of the B.O.A.T and bridleway! The B.O.A.T descended to Malkin Bower.

With fine views along Bilsdale

We then entered Hambleton, which is a place to grow! Being over 6 foot 2 inches do I really want to grow any more?

Does the sun shine in Bilsdale – well there are two Sun Inns. But no the sun didn’t shine today. It was claggy all day. 

Miles Walked 13.1

Steps 28,000

Calories Burnt 3,700

Post 234: 4 February 2018: The Inn Way, Rudland Rigg to Black Holes

At 7am (too early for a Sunday) I filled my Camel Pack with water, not realising I hadn’t screwed the cap on properly. Just after breakfast I noticed the kitchen floor was covered in water, which delayed me considerably whilst mopping up. Rushing to catch up as Sid the Yorkshireman would be banging on the door at 8am I then knocked a bottle of milk over. Sometimes you get a feeling it’s going to be one of those days!  

The forecast had been for early snow at about 8am and then brightening up as we arrived at the car park, just after Ousegill Bridge, above Bransdale, at 9.00am. I could just see the location of my adopted trig pillar in the far distance on top of the escarpment. I will end up there one day with a Canadian walking friend who passed away far too young and asked to be placed there. I was not planning to go there soon but when we suddenly found Sid the Yorkshireman’s car sliding uncontrolled down a hill towards Spout House I began to wonder. Just as we were about to get our gear on a snow storm arrived. It was so bad and went on so long we thought we would have to abandon the walk and take a few photographs and go for a coffee somewhere. There are not many cafes in this wilderness! The roads deteriorated quickly but we decided to leave the car park. 

When we reached a hill Sid the Yorkshireman drove very slowly and we thought with 4 wheel drive we would be okay.  That was until the car started slipping and sliding down the hill towards Spout House. We were about to be spouted into a wall! I grabbed a car handle and braced myself for a crash as the car’s speed increased out of control and I could see some pretty hard stone walls directly ahead.

Sid the Yorkshireman managed to get control of the car again as it somehow came to a halt. It was time for a re-think again. We decided we couldn’t carry on ahead as there were more steep hills and so turned round and went back, The four wheel drive worked on the ascent of the hill and we headed back towards the car park. We decided that we couldn’t go further after the car park due to another steep descent and were in effect trapped.

At this point the Cavalry arrived over the hill as though it was a was a movie in the far west and we cheered!

Some locals then appeared in their cars so they must know what time the gritter comes round the North York Moors remotest valley on a Sunday!

Not only that, there was also some improvement in the weather such that, with an improving forecast, we decided the walk was back on. It was now 10.00am and so we had lost an hour, but at least the car and us were intact! Normal business resumed and we headed off walking along improving roads. Spikes were compulsory even for Sid the Yorkshireman.

We soon turned off the road to begin climbing to Rudland Rigg where we would rejoin The Inn Way from earlier in the week. There were fine views towards  Bransdale

We then walked into low mist and all became grey again as we arrived at Rudland Rigg

As we descended the weather improved and according to the forecast there was less than a 10% chance of more snow. The views were fabulous as we descended towards the bottom of Bransdale. We discussed whether 4 wheel drive or winter tyres (I have the latter) are better on ice and snow. The problem is it is difficult to know until your in the situation where they are needed. Clearly both are best, but that is not always possible. Bransdale Mill came into view. This and much of the land hereabouts is owned and managed by the National Trust.  This was to be an early lunch stop at just after 11.30am as there was a bench and shelter from the slight wind. The old water wheel and other artefacts are still there. The mill is one of the oldest in the North York Moors dating back to the 13th century. It was used to ground corn and oatmeal. William Strickland restored the mill in 1842. Whilst sitting having our lunch we could imagine the activities that must have gone on there.  It is like stepping back in time and full of interest.

Climbing out of valley bottom after lunch, we passed a sundial with various inscriptions, my favourite being:

Time and life move swiftly. 

How true as you get older!

The imposing Bransdale Lodge could be seen further up the valley.

Bransdale was named after the Viking settler Brand and is the most remote valley on the North York Moors. Perhaps some of my relatives lived here?! With narrow lanes and few car parks and tourist attractions, such as cafes and information centres, it has a uniqueness and remoteness of its own. On the whole of the walk we only saw one other person on foot, and that was a runner from a remote farm. My sort of place! 

We soon ascended out of the valley bottom heading toward the ridge towards Bilsdale. There was now a long undulating ascent towards our next destination Black Holes. The name is enough to put you off!

The path through the heather was difficult to find and very tiring. There was an awkward stream and wet area to cross. It was not for the faint hearted or inexperienced walker.

Despite the starkness there was colour and occasional signs of spring low to the ground.

There was suddenly a scream and I looked back and Carol had taken a tumble. Not the best place as if she was seriously injured it would have been a helicopter air ambulance job!

However, fortunately as she had fallen she had a spasm of cramp and so there was no permanent damage.  We stopped for a breather and a regroup in a nearby grouse butt. There is no A&E out here! I gave some body mineral supplement to Carol, which would reduce the likelihood of cramp. We still had a lot of walking to do! At nearby Black Holes  it was now important to find our bridleway/track back towards the car.

Fortunately, the track was obvious but where it split I did take a compass reading to check the one we took was heading in the correct direction, easterly. It was now time for a bit of fun photographing tracks. As well as grouse, a mountain biker had left his tracks!

We headed towards Bonfield Ghyll

Where we were delighted to find a working Archimedian screw supplying hydro-electro power to the local 18th century farm, which has never had mains electricity. Owned by the National Trust it was the first of its kind being installed in 2007 to replace a noisy diesel generator.

We then continued to the ruins of Stork House with expansive views of Bransdale.

It was with some sadness that we viewed the ruins. There is an inscription on a stone nearby dated 1815!

Carol was in need of a tree hug. 

Sid the Yorkshireman felt in need of a boot and spikes clean.

And I felt in a need of a pheasant. We just needed to find the transport home now. This seemed suitable.

Well it could be four wheeled drive and have winter tyres?! 

A challenging and thoroughly enjoyable day!

Miles Walked 12.1

Calories Burnt 3,800

Steps 28,000

 

 

 

 

Post 233: The Inn Way, 1 February 2018, Sheriff’s Pit to Rudland Rigg.

With the alarm clock due to go off at 6.30am, what better way to prepare for a tough walk than spend half the night Supermoonlighting. By Supermoonlighting I mean looking at and photographing a Supermoon. 

It started at 5-6pm the night before when Sid the Yorkshireman telephoned me to ask if I had seen the Supermoon that would not occur for about another 175 years! I think that is not quite right as I have arranged for another one on my next birthday on 21 January 2019. However, there will not be another record Supermoon until 25 November 2034, by which time I will be watching it from heaven I reckon.

I said to Sid the Yorkshireman that it was too cloudy to see the Supermoon. However, he lives at the posh end of the village and they have direct access to Supermoons as he pays higher council tax, despite being a Yorkshireman. So I donned my cold weather gear and got my camera equipment and drove down to the other end of the village just in time to see this big moon rising up into the clouds.

It was not until about 11.00pm, just as I was going to bed, I saw from my bedroom window some breaks in the clouds and the Supermoon appear. My camera and tripod were ready and I snapped my first photo through an opened window. I then got further photographs at just after 3am (through the opened landing window). I woke up at 6.00am and looked out of the front door to see the Supermoon at its best. Here are the results. An awesome sight.

Leaving home at 8.00am we arrived at the very windy Farndale turning car park just before the Lion Inn, Blakey and commenced walking along the Rosedale dismantled railway line to Sheriff’s Pit, to resume The Inn Way.

After some tricky route finding through overgrown heather, we resumed descending into Farndale with fine views.

Then light snow started and we thought that wasn’t forecast by Paul Hudson our weatherman. We hurried onto Church Houses for our coffee and banana break, alongside the closed Feversham Arms.We ascended steeply towards Rudland Rigg, with fine retrospective views back to Farndale. 

It was a bleak area in low cloud, not the bright sunshine forecast.

However, in better weather one can appreciate James Herriot’s view of Rudland Rigg that:

‘Oh, the feeling of freshness and freedom up there, with the air keen and the wind sharp, but carrying with it, in the season, the scent of heather. I often feel that the soul of the North York Moors lies in and around Rudland Rigg because of the motif of the whole area is distance and heather,’

We then left the Rigg and The Inn Way on a quickly disappearing path to descend back towards Farndale.

It was very tiring through overgrown heather. Eventually we picked up a path and stopped for lunch in a sheltered spot out of the wind. There were great views along Farndale. Until………

To our great surprise a snowstorm arrived! Paul Hudson was not the most popular weather forecaster at this time, but fortunately we had our full winter gear. In my case this includes 4 hats (removed for photographs above!).

We kept saying that this wasn’t forecast. It was only when I watched Look North News that Paul Hudson admitted that things didn’t go according to plan and it was the first time since 2003! Not sure we would agree with that.

At the bottom of the valley we reached the Duffin Stone. It is one of the stones referred to as a boundary marker by Walter Espec in the documents relating to to his grant of land to Rievaulx Abbey in the twelve century. The name of the stone in those days was Duvanasthwaite. Duvan, or Duffin (on the Ordnance maps). Thwaite refers to a clearing that would have been near the stone.

We then had to cross the River Dove, which fortunately had a new bridge.

We then spotted three deer cross our path. You can just see their white rears. At Esk House we came across a lovely Shire Horse, looking miserable with the poor weather.

We then climbed the final hill of the day only for Sid the Yorkshireman to realise that he had dropped a glove about half a mile back. You can just see him (blue spot!) heading back down the hill to retrieve it! After some delay we arrived at the dismantled railway, which is a section of Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Walk. The Rosedale Ironstone Railway was constructed in 1861, a considerable engineering achievement.

Now you will know of Alfred Hitchcock’s film The Birds. Well we were suddenly surrounded by sheep running hither and thither. Could be an inspiration for a horror movie based on sheep.

Surviving the onslaught we then had a level walk along the railway line, with fine views down the very tranquil Farndale. It is hard to believe that as Wainwright put it in 1973:

‘there are men with souls so dead, with visions so clouded, with appreciation of natural beauty so withered, that they actually scheme to flood the valley with water permanently. You simply can’t credit, can you? ‘

Fortunately, its beauty remains for current and future generations.

 I then started looking at the ice patches and the varying patterns they formed. Nature up here can be so creative.

There was a final look down Farndale before reaching the car. 

Miles Walked 12.6 

Steps 27,000

Calories Burnt 3,700

Post 232: The Inn Way, 29 January 2018. The Top of The George Gap Cause (lane) to Sheriff’s Pit.

After last Mondays exhilarating but tiring walk in snowbound Rosedale we decided that we could resume The Inn Way on the North York Moors as we expected the worst of the melting snow to have gone. As an aside, I had in the meantime been reading, in the last few days, The Wainwright Letters.  I was intrigued to discover that, whilst  honeymooning in York in 1970 with his second wife Betty Wainwright, Alfred Wainwright went on the North York Moors for the first time.

Wainwright’s first marriage to Ruth ended with divorce on 24 June 1968. He was found guilty of mental cruelty and had to pay a lump sum of £4,000 and £500 a year to Ruth during his lifetime. It is not within the realm of this blog to go further into the reasons for the mental cruelty, but he did spend all his spare time going on the fells and writing his guide books. They did have a son.

Whilst on the North York Moors,  Wainwright got the idea to devise his now famous Coast to Coast Walk and in 1973 this was published. By coincidence it was the year I got married and, despite my wife Celia having grounds for mental cruelty as I spend a fair amount of time on walks, planning walks, writing blogs and the occasional book and looking at maps, we have now been married for 44 years! I must be doing something right. In 1991 I walked Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Walk and am now on my 54th and 55th long distance walks!

We parked near the Farndale turning car park, just before the Lion Inn, Blakey. For night owls there is an opportunity to go interstellar.

We soon dropped down to the Rosedale valley bottom as we had to pick up The Inn Way route again from where we last left off.

 What was noticeable this week was the increased sound of birds, clearly enjoying the spring like weather with temperatures much higher at 8-12 degrees. What a difference a week makes with last weeks snow all gone!!!

We passed the Rosdal (Rosedale) and Whitby signpost to reach the lane at the top of The George Causeway Gap to then rejoin The Inn Way and head back down to Rosedale (known as an out and back in the trade!). It had started to rain and so we donned our waterproofs.

 

We came across a recently cleaned out culvert, which had probably been there since the railway (now dismantled)  had been built.

The place would have looked very different in the 1800s with trains crossing this embankment to service the Ironstone Industry.

There is now a £3.8 million Land of Iron Project fund by the Heritage Lottery Fund, David Ross Foundation and many other partners. It has a vision:

History: Record, conserve and safeguard the legacy of our industrial past as it slowly melts back into the landscape.

Environment:  Nurture and protect the natural world around us, helping it to flourish for many years to come.

People: Tell the stories of the people, industry and landscape that made the Land of Iron.

However, something else beckoned us.

The rain was getting heavier and this little oasis emerged. There is even cosy overnight accommodation.

We had homemade flapjacks and Yorkshire brack cake using the self service system. The rain got really heavy and we were delighted to be kept warm and dry. Just as we were leaving the owner came out and apologised for not providing milk. However, we had our own flasks. Well worth a visit and the rain now stopped!

We followed the Daleside Road to Thorgill and Rosedale Abbey. 

Sid the Yorkshireman used to be a pig farmer and using his pig whispering skills was  able to get this beauty into the perfect pose for a photograph.

On the opposite side of the valley were the old ironstone kilns. 

We arrived at the church of St Mary and St Lawrence in Rosedale Abbey. The only remains of the priory is the  staircase below right.

The sun was out and it was time for lunch on a bench in the churchyard.

We could ponder on the artwork of children in the church, relating their memories of the Tour de Yorkshire. Bicycles still adorn buildings in the village.

We then had to climb out of Rosedale Abbey towards Thorgill Bank with ever changing images of Rosedale, one of my favourite valleys, brought alive by afternoon winter sun.

Some farms on higher ground have fallen into disuse.

The path became boggy and for the second time this winter (third time ever), due to lack of concentration and tiredness, I ended up going into a bog up to one knee. Fortunately the other leg was on firm ground.

We were pleased to get on the higher drier heather. We arrived at the remains of Sheriff’s Pit, where the pithead operated from near the mine managers house and pit shaft.

The shaft was excavated in 1857 to provide a quick and easy way of transporting ironstone from the West Mines up to the railway line on the side of Blakey Ridge. It descends 270 feet to link up with a 1500 foot long level that was cut into the West Mines to the north of Thorgill. 

All that remained now was to walk a couple of miles back to the car along the dismantled railway line and enjoy the fabulous mid afternoon views as the sun dropped low in the sky to give great photographic conditions. Relax – sit back and enjoy the slideshow.

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Now where was that Dale Head Cafe when you are ready for a cup of tea? Oh damn its there on the other side of the valley below the trees!!!

Finally, I imagine the conversation of the sheep below us went something like this:

“Hey Ewe, get in the queue!”

“That’s better”

Miles Walked 12.9

Steps 30,219

Calories Burnt 4193. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Post 231: 25th January 2018, Walk 3 South Cave Circular. 

Having recently reached my 66th birthday and received some ‘cheeky’ walking birthday cards (see previous post 230), I then got this card from a much younger (about 20 years) female friend. The funny thing was that it arrived 3 days late –  so I was able to tell her that she was over the hill and that the mind goes first and then the body!! He,he,he…

With the The North York Moors under melting snow we decided to postpone The Inn Way and head to the drier chalk lands of the Yorkshire Wolds. However, having already completed The Wolds Way, we decided on an alternative project, 38 mostly circular walks which collectively total 353 miles from the book Walking in the Wolds, published in 1993. It would be my 55th long distance walk. No doubt after 25 years there would be a few changes to the route!

After leaving the Fox And Coney pub at South Cave just before 9am, we had a good start arriving at Little Wold Vineyard. This must be a sign of global warming when there are vineyards in Yorkshire. Note to self – order some wine!

The Humber Estuary can just be viewed in the distance.

We soon entered typical rolling, green Wolds country.

With some delightful copses. We passed boundary stones for Hunsley.

Then passed a  Yorkshire Wolds Way sign, indicating the end of that walk, 64 miles away at Filey. High Hunsley Beacon was passed by us and also by an aeroplane way above in the sky (see white streak left of wire beacon). Trees provided some interesting shadow patterns on the fields, with a wind farm in the distance. It reminded me of David Hockney’s paintings. A descent into Swin Dale followed, which is a classic dry Wolds valley.

We arrived at North Newbald which is one of two Danish settlements, the other being South Newbald.  We had an early lunch break on a bench in the warming sun.

A little further on we came across St Nicholas’s Church, which is the most complete Norman building in the East Riding. It is one of finest Norman churches in England. It was built mainly in the second half of the twelve century.

My first 2018 siting of snowdrops were in the church grounds.

After passing through South Newbald we arrived at Hotham Church which has a distinctive tower. A plaque on a wall outside the church was placed there to celebrate 900 years of Norman heritage. Many  of the village buildings are of local limestone.

The pub, the Hotham Arms is quite unique in appearance.

Further along is what we believe was an ice store.

It may have belonged to nearby Hotham HallIts lodge has a powerful sign – a reminder of the sacrifices so many paid for our freedom.

At North Cave there is a fine Grade 1 listed medieval church, All Saints,  built and modified from the 13th century onwards, with a few remaining Norman features.

Continuing to Everthorpe we wondered what the significance of the village sign was? We think it is related to the two prisons, HMP Everthorpe and HMP Wolds.

Even the kissing gates are much larger than the norm!

At South Cave outside the entrance to Cave Castle is a war memorial which says:

“Is it nothing to you, ye that pass by?

Well, is it nothing to you? Because if it isn’t, it should be.” 

Eight centuries ago a castle stood where a hotel and restaurant is now located.

Well if I am over the hill, I still managed to walk:

12½ Miles !!!!!!  

 

Post 230: 22 January 2018: Not The Inn Way! Revised walk around the head of Rosedale. 

Having reached my 66th birthday yesterday so that I am now 66 living on route 66 (cycle route through my village), I received a number of birthday cards which appeared to hint that maybe it was time to ease up on serious walking and retire to easier walking involving wine, tea shops, pubs and even a wheelbarrow?

A couple of days earlier Carol and Sid the Yorkshireman had struggled in deep snow up to Carol’s knees and, when avoiding a car on an icy road, she had jumped into the hedge only to find a twig poke into her eye and removed her contact lens. After a trip to the optician at Boots her eye was given the all clear.

The forecast was for good weather, but we thought the snow might still be deep on the North York Moors making continuing the next uneven and hilly section of The Inn Way difficult. We therefore had a plan B (always a good idea) to walk on the Rosedale old railway trackbed, which at least should be flat. The line was opened opened on 27th March 1871 to service the ironstone mining. During a severe winter of 1916/17 the line was blocked for five weeks by snow. Because of increased costs and a falling price in the value of iron, the mines were closed in 1925, but operations continued for a few years extracting valuable calcine dust from the slag heaps. Goods traffic on the line finally ceased in 1929.

We passed through Hutton le Hole and the side roads were not brilliant, such that without winter tyres we would have got stuck in the toilet car park! That would not have been a good start.

We continued on the main road to pass Farndale, which confirmed there was still a lot of snow about. The views were gorgeous.

We arrived at our starting point for the revised walk at the car park at the Lion Inn, Blakey, which was a little snowed under.

I decided to put sun tan on as, even in winter, protection against the sun is advised (e.g. NHS Direct). There weren’t many coast to coast campers, despite this being on Wainwright’s Coast to Coast route!  There was no accommodation at the pub when his book was first published in 1972, but coast to coasters have since contributed to the success of the pub in more recent years.

We dropped steeply down to the dismantled railway in quite deep snow.

The sheep thought us a little eccentric, but then they just followed each other like sheep.

We then picked up the railway trackbed.

The wind had created some wonderful snow effects.

There are few buildings in the area!

Sections of the route were not as flat as we anticipated as some of the track bed is silted up and now bog and marshland.

It was like entering a Winter Wonderland.

I tended to drop well behind Carol and Sid the Yorkshireman as there were so many photographic opportunities. You can just see them in the distance! The bend of the former railway track is evident too.

The bonus for me was that I could use their footprints in the snow to lessen my efforts.

The sun was out and with our efforts we didn’t feel cold.

We started to think about a banana and coffee break.

At last we found a coffee break location with a fantastic view along the valley.

Clouds were starting to appear and we were finding ‘Snow Miles’ were about twice as tiring as walking ‘Ordinary Miles’. We decided to return the way we had come back to the pub as it meant we could use our tracks to ease our efforts. It would have been dangerous and almost impossible to try and find paths to descend and ascend the valley back to the pub. They were covered in snow.

There were some interesting animal or bird marks in the snow. We had only seen a rabbit and grouse and the feathers of a bird that had been the prey of something.

We had brought our packed lunch and so as to admire the fantastic views further we stopped again at the only building on the route. It clouded over further, the wind got up and there was a definite change and chill in the air. We did not linger having had the best of the day.

We continued along the short climb to the pub for a coffee for me (the driver), tea for Carol and a whisky for Sid the Yorkshireman.

We arrived at the pub to a warming fire.

As for taking it easier as friends had hinted on my birthday, we did at least go to the pub, whereas normally on our walks we don’t have time!

Snow Miles Walked 5.6

Steps 15,000

Calories Burnt (3,500) reflecting the extra effort required to walk in snow.