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Post 195: 12 September 2017, Helmsley to my adopted Trig Point at Rollgate Bank 

After the intense ‘Best of 31 years of Walking in Yorkshire Condensed into 8 days‘ visit by Victoria, you would have thought I would have been given a few days off to recover. This was not to be the case and I was only given a day off before starting a new Long-distance Walk.

This was to be the COT COMBO WALK.

We had decided to combine three walks along the Southern area of the North York Moors from Helmsley to Scarborough.

C = The Cleveland Way Missing Link

O  = On Foot from Coast to Coast: The North of England Way

T = The Tabular Hills Walk 

We then combined them to make a COMBO. Brilliant.

Sid the Yorkshireman, Carol and myself began walking at 10.30am from the market cross in Helmsley.

Helmsley lies under the southern edge of the North York Moors and is a typical small market town, with a large market place surrounded by old inns and interesting shops.

Its ruined castle stands high on a mound overlooking the town. It was built in about 1200 and was later besieged by Parliamentary forces after the battle of Marston Moor and the fall of York during the Civil War. The castle was finally surrendered on 22 November 1644 after a three-month siege. Between 1646 and 1647 the castle was made unfit for war with parts of the keep and the walls being destroyed. It is now in the hands of English Heritage.

To emphasise why I prefer my activities on the ‘trail’ in places such as Helmsley rather than a large town or city, a few statistics may prove useful. One can compare crime figures say in Helmsley, Colchester and Albuquerque, New Mexico. In 1997, Helmsley had three assaults, three indecent assaults, twenty-two burglaries of buildings which were not houses (a number of these were sheds and garages), one aggravated taking of a vehicle, two thefts from a dwelling, three stolen pedal cycles, seventeen thefts from parked cars, six recorded shoplifting incidents, six stolen cars, four cases of fraud, one case of handling stolen goods, and ten cases of criminal damage. The average crime per year in Colchester is one murder, eight stolen cars a week, more than one thousand two hundred thefts from vehicles, four hundred and thirty one bicycle thefts, thirteen rapes, five hundred and seventy assaults, one thousand six hundred and eighty-seven criminal damage offences and eight hundred and ninety nine shoplifting offences. In 1996, crime in Albuquerque was seventy-two murders, seven thousand one hundred and twenty stolen cars, one thousand five hundred and twenty reported rapes, three thousand one hundred and twenty eight assaults, twenty-three thousand six hundred and sixty eight thefts and robberies, one hundred and sixteen arson cases, three hundred and fifty eight kidnappings and one thousand seven hundred and thirty-two complaints of intimidation. It has been said that Helmsley is one of those towns that makes you feel you don’t want to be anywhere else in the world. This morning it certainly felt like that in warm sunshine and the prospect of a new walk.

It came across as a bit of a surprise therefore that we came across a hate report sign! 20 years on have things in Helmsley changed?

Another reason I like Helmsley is that it is Volvo country – you see lots of shiny Volvos so I feel at home.

I had one of the first ever Volvo C30s followed by a second one.

When our ageing mothers could no longer cope with a two door car, Volvo kindly brought out the 4 door V40 to replace it.

As a Brompton Cyclist we saw a poster that certainly appealed to me – cycling to Lidos! Now with a Brompton I could pop it in the back of the car and drive from Lido to Lido.

We eventually started walking leaving the delightful Helmsley, with its decorative shops, behind.

However, noting a Mannion’s cafe had recently opened, I would be back before too long.

We were first following the North of England Way and soon came across warnings

and noted that near Reagarth Farm there was a permanent diversion around the farm.

We descended to the bottom of the delightful Riccal Dale

to come upon the Ponderosa, from the 1960s (yes I am old enough to remember it!) TV series Bonanza.

Well actually it is a Scout Camp.

Sid the Yorkshireman quickly volunteered to be William Tell’s son and had I been able to find a crossbow I would have shot the apple off his head as with the legendary William Tell.  Yes he is balancing that apple on his head not on the wood. However, it fell off a few times, so I ended up with a bruised apple for lunch.

We stopped for a coffee but weren’t too impressed with the shopping list apart from the chablis – for Scouts?! We weren’t too sure what a fanny pack was either! The Scouts has changed from our day.

Now Sid the Yorkshireman is known for his generosity, hence the name.  So when there is an opportunity to give Carol FREE flowers left there he jumps at the chance. They were better than from a florist and freshly cut – by whom?

We climbed out of the valley at Hasty Bank Farm. In heavy rain the water has been known to flow down the track through the kitchen.

We came to farming country. We had planned to stop here and return to Helmsley, but the weather was so good I persuaded Sid and Carol to continue ‘a few more miles’ to my adopted trig point for lunch.

We then hit the very straight quiet lane past Middle Farm and High Farm.

There were big skies looking back into the sun.

Ahead we reached a wood, followed by a heather enclosed track

Before we reached ‘Paradise’ and my adopted trig point. I have never seen it on a better day.

We posed at my adopted trig, remembered Penny who is hereabouts, and then went for lunch on the ‘secret’ bench dedicated to DEE (who was Dee?) along from the trig.

Our lunch time view couldn’t be bettered. The best view of the North York Moors. Sssshhhh….. don’t tell anyone it might get busy. These are Secret Diaries.

We then carried on our walk along the escarpment of Rollgate Bank, with ever changing views, each one worthy of a painting by Turner. Unfortunately, I don’t think he found this place – most people don’t.

We then did a short circular walk back to Hasty Bank Farm, ascended a very steep hill through woods and then walked through Ashdale back to Helmsley.

Walking doesn’t get much better than this. 

Miles Walked 16

Steps taken 30,900

Calories Burnt 19,000

Average Pace 16.47 minutes per mile

Max Pace 11.10 minutes per mile

Fastest Split 16.03 minutes per miles 

Elevation Gain 1,358 feet

Minimium Elevation 181 Feet 

Maximum Elevcation 954 Feet. 

With a first day like this on the COT COMBO would it all be downhill from here for the rest of the walk?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Post 194: Hawes attractions and Aysgarth Falls at its best. 

Our descent along the delightful B6255 to Hawes was very different to my walking descent to Hawes on my coast to coast, The North of England Way, in 1993.

Then we descended to Hawes in rain and, not realising that the grass had become like a skating rink, I fell forward with such panache that Torville and Dean would have been impressed. As I aquaplaned down the grassy slope, I entered the record books as one of the few people who had done a section of The Pennine Way and The North of England Way horizontal. With a pack on, gravity has full effect, making it very difficult to stop. By the time Hawes was reached the rain was coming down in torrents.  There is only one thing to do in that sort of weather, go to the pub or a waterfall. At Hardraw, 2 miles outside of Hawes, it is possible to do both. We entered the pub and followed the path past the bandstand to the impressive falls, best seen after heavy rain. The 96-ft high shimmering column of water is reputably the highest above ground in England. It was painted by Turner and every spring it is a natural amphitheatre used for a brass band concert. However, on this wet day a hasty retreat to the inn was the order of the day, how convenient.

Hawes has a number of other attractions, not least the Wensleydale Creamery in Gayle Lane, ‘home’ of the famous Wensleydale cheese, the museum portraying the history of ‘Real Wensleydale Cheese.’ In addition to the museum, there is a viewing gallery where you can watch cheese being made, a cheese shop with free tasting, and a licensed restaurant. Try some Wensleydale Wallace and Gromit cheese or Wensleydale cheese with apricots – absolutely delicious and guaranteed to give you energy for the remainder of any walk!

There is plenty of accommodation in Hawes,  including a Youth Hostel which had a reputation for providing ‘home’ cooked food.

However, Hawes can get busy and, after parking the car, the first pub we went to was full. We found a cafe/retuarant opposite the Crown pub, which provided us with excellent Sunday roasts. Victoria remained true to form and had a pint of beer.

Having got our breath and energy back, where now?  It was now 6.00pm but I didn’t want this 8 days to end. The sun was still out. There was only one place suitable to finish what had been a great 8 days,  Aysgarth Falls, which Turner visited and painted in 1816.

In my coast to coast book in 1997 I said:

‘Aysgarth Falls are best seen towards the end of the day when all the tourists have gone, or during the long summer evenings. The River Ure, confined between wooded banks, falls over a series of broad, shallow terraces extending over a mile. The falls were at their most impressive, bursting with energy and vitality after the exceptionally heavy overnight rain.’

We were not to be disappointed on this occasion and spent nearly an hour and a half there photographing, admiring and videoing the falls at the best I had ever seen them. One piercing memory for me was the noise of the falls, which was intense and which I captured on video.

We started at the Upper Falls.

Then moved to the Middle Falls

The walked to the Lower Falls

Before returning to the bridge over the river

We were very happy to have caught the falls in spate and in good evening light.

Returning over Aysgarth Bridge to the south bank we passed Yore Mill on the left. The mill was built in 1784-85 as a corn mill but has a chequered history including being burned down in 1853. Rebuilt to twice the original size it subsequently had a variety of uses; between 1912 and 1959 it was a flour mill. Since 1967 its roomy interior has housed the Yorkshire Carriage Museum, which has a fascinating variety of old coaches and carriages, as well as an unequalled view of the Upper Falls.

Further up the hill, again on the left, is St Andrew’s Church. Although it was largely rebuilt in 1866, its 4½-acre churchyard indicates its earlier importance as the mother-church for the whole of Upper Wensleydale. Inside the church the exquisite wooden screen filling the south side of the chancel was brought to Aysgarth from Jervaulx Abbey at the Dissolution of the Monasteries. It was carved in about 1506, by members of the famous Ripon School of Carvers.  At its western end is the delicately carved Vicar’s Stall made from two bench-ends from Jervaulx.

However, the day was not quite finished and when we got back to the car a final sunset blessed us again.

Miles Walked 8

I think Victoria enjoyed her 8 days of the Best of the Yorkshire as she has invited Celia and myself to visit her town in the Bavarian Alps! Needless to say I have accepted and I am looking forward to seeing one of the most beautiful and dramatic parts of Germany and the nearby Austrian Alps in 2018. 

I certainly enjoyed the 8 days which, although being completely different to anything I had ever done before, had parallels with completing a long-distance walk with changing activities, views, vistas and challenges (but pleasant) each day.  We had been blessed with kind weather for all but half a day (shopping day) in Yorkshire and some time in Lancashire.

It was now 19.30 and we had spent nearly an hour and a half absorbed by the falls. It was time to head back to York. I finally arrived home at 21.45pm!   Then it was up early next day to take Victoria to Manchester Airport and back to reality.

I hope you have enjoyed reading about some of the places we visited and that it will encourage you to visit some of them.

It would have been Penny Bolton-Galbraith’s 50th birthday today (21st) had her life not been cut short by illness. She is always remembered and is ‘still walking the fells with me’. A ‘Canadian jewel’, who was a truly international person. Although her trail name was ‘Talks with Sheep’ she lived each day as a Tiger – we should all do that and make the best we can of each day. 

 

 

 

 

Post 193: 9 September 2017. Into the unknown of Lancashire, before escaping back to Yorkshire

The plan for today was to go to the Three Peaks area of Yorkshire and climb Pen-y-ghent, before heading further up the valley to the Ribblehead Viaduct area.

However, a friend Dan from Siberia (also known as Suffolk) had a temporary volunteering manager position at Slaidburn Youth Hostel and invited us over there and to the Hodder Valley Agricultural Show.  Despite this being Lancashire, we did not wish to be unfriendly and so decided to leave York at 8am on a Sunday morning.

On a sunny day we stopped at a farm shop just beyond Skipton for coffee and then stopped at the original Rohan Outdoor Clothing shop at Long Preston.

We then entered Lancashire and the heavens opened. This was not a good omen.

Arriving in Slaidburn we asked a volunteer, who was directing bicycles from the show, where the hostel was but she hadn’t a clue. It was about 100 yards further up the road. However, Dan had prepared two cakes for us and so we felt much better. One each?

We had a quick tour around the hostel.

 

Then we headed to Dunsop Bridge, where the show was being held.  The area was already like Glastonbury with mud everywhere.

 

Slipping and sliding, we had a look at the various sheep being judged.

 

Followed by the cattle.

Before heading to the crafts tent which was like a sauna, but with some interesting displays.

I started to feel light headed and sat down on the only chair available at the first aid area. Victoria came over and kindly fetched me a bottle of water as I thought I was dehydrated due to the heat, an early start and too much coffee.

I then retired to the car and had a snooze, whilst Victoria and Dan went to see the fell running. I was woken by Dan banging on the car window and felt suitably recovered and refreshed.

All we had to do now was get out of the field car park.

Dan led the way but soon halted to a stop in the mud. My Volvo glided over the mud and we got out. Dan’s VW had to be towed out by a tractor.

We never saw Dan again that day as we sped on out of Lancashire to Yorkshire and the Three Peaks area.

We stopped at the Pen-y-ghent cafe for yet more coffee.

 

The owner came over for a chat and said he had thought Victoria was my daughter as we looked alike. She soon put him right!

We abandoned our plan to climb Pen-y-ghent as it was now 15.18pm and instead headed further up the valley along what is one of my favourite drives, when the heart starts to beat a little faster at the bends and the prospect of views ahead.

 

Having already passed Pen-y-ghent,

Ingleborough and Whernside came into view in dramatic light.

Then the magnificent Ribblehead Viaduct.

It was now 16.28pm and the skies looked ominously dark and so it was time to move on.

I made a quick decision to head over the dales on the B6255 towards Hawes and Wensleydale, where we could get food and drink and recharge.   There was still plenty to explore. This was after all Victoria’s last day and the dark clouds passed and weather was still holding good now we were back in sunny Yorkshire. 

Post 192:  8 September 2017. My favourite drive over the North York Moors. 

We left Robin Hood’s Bay in the late afternoon to head to the open and remote moors,  via Ruswarp, Sleights, Grosmont, Egton and Egton Bridge.

At Egton Bridge we took a steeply ascending, narrow, hair pinned road towards Rosedale. If you fancy honing your rally driving skills, this is the place to come.

What is amazing is that since the Tour de Yorkshire cycling the road, which hardly ever gets any cars on it, is the best tarmac road in Yorkshire, having been especially resurfaced for cycling. It is wonderful.  But sssh………. keep it a secret as we don’t want it to get busy! These are after all Secret Diaries.

Even better, arriving at the top of the hill immediately after a cattle grid, it is possible to park up and stretch ones legs amongst the heather. Victoria was as elusive as ever.

The dark clouds had gone, the sun was out again and the views were magnificent. You can even see the sea from whence we had come.  Big skies.

Glaisdale, on Wainwright’s coast to coast, can also be seen nestled in the valley below.

There is a further lovely drive to the top of Rosedale, one of my favourite valleys where the views are again magnificent.

We descended steeply to the lovely village of Rosedale Abbey were there are nice cafes but as it was 5.15pm they were closed. An ascent up the steep and winding Rosedale Chimney, legendary amongst cyclists, followed.

After going over Spaunton Moor, we turned left to head to ‘Black Sheep country’ and the lovely village of Lastingham. We were now back on my own coast coast route.

A vist to the 1,000 year old underground crypt in St Mary’s Church is essential. It has a very particular ambience and years ago the now illegal practice of cock-fighting used to take place. There are a number of Viking artefacts in the crypt.

Also essential is a visit to the Blacksmith’s Arms pub opposite. 

Leaving Lastingham, we visited the Victoria Cross viewpoint – how could Victoria miss it?

Finally, we drove through the the picturesque village of Hutton-le-Hole.

Miles Walked 8

A long but splendid day. We arrived home at 7.00pm. Fortunately, dinner was already prepared and we relaxed watching the film, Everest. 

However, dark clouds were on the horizon as tomorrow (Day 8) we had a very early start and briefly had to leave sunny Yorkshire and venture into Lancashire – will we get out again to go to the wonderful Three Peaks area of Yorkshire?

It did not go smoothly. 

 

 

Post 191: 8 September 2017. A Walk around and from Robin Hood’s Bay, A Drive over the Best Heather Moorland

We began the steep ascent out of Robin Hood’s Bay and passed a cast-iron Victorian water fountain. Not as convenient a water supply as now.

We passed an information board at the top of the hill.

We turned right after one of the many colourful bed and breakfast establishments.

Fuchsias were in flower.

It is so important to keep looking back on walks for fine retrospective views.

An information board reminded us of the dangers of the coastline hereabouts. I wouldn’t have wanted to be rescued by a rocket!

We followed the coastal footpath for about 2 miles until we reached a path that led inland towards Hawkser Bottoms.

On reaching the dismantled railway we headed back towards Robin Hood’s Bay, past National Trust Land.

Victoria, who was really enjoying the coastal views, had gone back to being elusive. I think she patted me on the head for my good efforts as a guide!

 

We had a final view of the bay.

Clouds were starting to form. It was time to be on our way after what was a lovely short, easy, but interesting walk.

Surprisingly it was now 3.30pm. There was no time to dilly dally as I had my favourite drive over the Moors lined up.

Robin Hood’s Bay easily qualifies for inclusion in ‘My Best of 31 years of walking in Yorkshire condensed into 8 days.’ and I think Victoria agreed. 

 

Post 190: 8 September 2017. A walk around and from Robin Hood’s Bay, A Drive over the best heather moorland

As I said in earlier blogs, Victoria, living so far inland in Germany, was desperate to see more of the coast and the name Robin Hood’s Bay has connotations of pirates, smuggling, and Robin Hood so what better place was there to go to?

However, a diversion was essential to take in views of Castle Howard which featured in the TV series Brideshead Revisited.

There were fine views as we drove to the North York Moors and stopped at the Everley Cafe, once a pub, for a coffee. A couple of Germans were there on their first day of the Tabular Hills Walk. 

The views from the drive towards Robin Hood’s Bay were stunning.

Dropping down from the car park we stopped in a lovely spot for lunch

We then carried on down to Robin Hoods Bay and the beach.

There were many colourful Mosaics

and then Victoria, not so elusive……

ES 6 Photograph 

The walk to the beach and the end of Alfred Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Walk was delightful.

We then had to climb the steep hill and many steps put of Robin Hoods’ Bay……..

Post 189: 7 September 2017. A Visit to the European City of Culture 2017.

Day 6 of the ‘Best of 31 years of walking in Yorkshire  condensed into 8 days’ was meant to be a visit and walk around the European City of Culture – Hull.

However, my visiting young lady (Victoria), supported by my wife, had other ideas. She wanted to visit the shops of York and spend, spend and spend; well sort of.

Such a lady is, I have found from the past, an irresistible force that no amount logic or reasoning will steer away from her chosen course. I meekly submitted and let her ‘do her own thing’. I was pleased next day to learn that she had bought some jewellery, clothes and others items.

But for anyone not so inclined, the European City of Culture Hull, with a walk around the old part and the marina is well worth a visit, taking in three of my favourite museums, The Ferens, Wilberforce and Maritime. Even better they are all FREE.

Miles Walked – I haven’t a clue!

I went to the cinema and had a much needed rest day.  

The next Day (7) we were off to Robin Hoods Bay and some of the best heather on the North York Moors.  That’s a relief. 

 

 

 

 

Post 188: 6th September 2017. A beach walk towards Sandsend and then to Whitby Abbey.

When I asked my German visitor Victoria where in particular she would like to visit in her 8 days available, Whitby was top of her list. She lives 4 hours from the coast in Germany and so trips to the coast are fairly infrequent. I was delighted with this choice as it would gives us the opportunity to go on one of the countries best heritage railways, The North York Moors Railway from Pickering to Whitby. I was not sure this was in Victoria’s plans but it was in mine, especially as we would be on a steam train!

After negotiations worthy of BREXIT about a start time, I picked Victoria up from the York Youth Hostel reception at about 7.30am. I was intrigued by the poster in the reception, highlighting York’s chocolate and sweets heritage.

We arrived at Pickering at about 9.00am and had a coffee and purchased our tickets.

Our train was getting up steam to depart at 9.25am.

We were lucky to get a seating immediately behind the engine, which would be good for photographs and videos. I was happy if a bit bleary eyed.

For the next hour and 45 minutes we enjoyed the journey through some of the best scenery on the North York Moors and much of Heartbeat Country, named after the Yorkshire TV’s series. 

The ‘celebrity’ station of Goathland is also known as Aidensfield in the TV series and is the bewitching Hogshead in the first Harry Potter film.

The next station Grosmont is a 1952 British Rail style station, which just happens to be my birth year. It is home to the engine sheds where the locomotives are maintained and restored. It is also the junction with the main rail network. To get the full ‘steam effect’ click on the individual photographs. 

We eventually approached Whitby crossing over the River Esk

and passing the impressive Larpool viaduct.

We had a potter around the harbour waiting for the fish and chips restaurant to open.

My choice of restaurant is always Trenchers and we were not disappointed :

My had my favourite dessert – knickerbocker glory! How could Victoria resist one?

NOW IT WAS TIME FOR A WALK TO BURN ALL THE CALORIES OFF!!!!

We walked along the harbour towards the two lighthouses and found a board which showed our route towards Sandsend.

We ascended the steps with great views towards the Abbey in great weather appearing. We posed under the whalebone and paid our respects to Captain Cook.

We then had a bracing but most enjoyable walk along the promenade towards Sandsend, returning back along the beach. Victoria had particular interest in the football – I can’t think why other than Germans like their football!

We then ascended back up to Captain Cook.

Then walked back through town past the famous, but temporarily closed (due to fire), Magpie fish and chips restaurant, to cross the swing bridge, and then ascend the 199 steps to the Church and Abbey.

St Mary’s Church is well worth a visit.

Outside there is a fascinating memorial.

We then moved onto Whitby Abbey, which was the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula. It was a 7th century Christian monastery that later became a Benedictine abbey.

After circling the Abbey and the nearby Youth Hostel we descended back to the town.

Whilst waiting for the train we had a beer in a local pub. Victoria as elusive as ever.

Our train was steaming up to depart at 17.10pm.

After another enjoyable relaxing train journey to Pickering to arrive at 18.45pm, we then took the ‘country route’ via Malton back to York, the day rounded off by a fine sunset.

I won’t even argue that Whitby has to be included in ‘the Best of 31 years of walking in Yorkshire condensed into 8 days’. It speaks for itself.

Miles Walked  4 

 

Post 187: 5 September 2017, York Minster, A Walk along the Medieval Walls of York and The New Walk to the Millennium Bridge.

We continued along towards Skeldergate Bridge, the start of The New Walk. My photographs from the floods, mainly in 2015, of this section are more ‘interesting’ than today!

 

Davy Tower adjoins the Bridge and it is alleged used to be a brothel in the seventeenth century. There was no sign of that today, but we could see the Bonding Warehouse on the opposite side of the river. Flats exchange hands for over £1 million now. It used be a nightclub, before being converted to luxury flats.

 

We passed what is the car park of St George’s Field where the ghost of highwayman Dick Turpin it is said can be seen. He was hanged on the Knavesmire in 1739. Blood curling feuds were also settled here and it is said screams can occasionally be heard.

We crossed the Blue Bridge. The first one was erected in 1738 for just over £100.

Looking back from the Blue Bridge the Foss Barrier can be seen, which was built after the 1984 floods and in theory supports a large gate used to protect the city when the river rises to a certain height.

 

In 2015 the pumps were overwhelmed and I witnessed a dramatic attempt by Chinook helicopters to rescue the situation, with new pumping equipment. A resident in the nearby house let me into his house to photograph the drama. I have never been so close to Chinook helicopters. I was in the houses on the right. I started in the gardens but the downdraught was too high.

The rescue mission went on most of the day.

With no floods today we were able to continue towards the Millennium Bridge to pass the Piking Well, which is a decorative well house and was believed to be able to cure rickets.

We soon reached the scene of another rescue in 2015. Whilst taking photographs near the Dyrdals Volvo Garage, Andrew MacPherson (now a Facebook friend) arrived in his car with a tiny canoe on the top. He began to unload so I went over and had a chat as to intentions. He was going to canoe to the City Centre! I thought he was mad until he told me he was a very qualified canoeist. I still thought he was mad!

 

I said I would go further up river and film him. In the excitement I completely forgot my camera bag (I had my camera and tripod) with some £2,000 worth of lenses and other equipment in it. I left it on the pavement. He realised this put it on his back and canoed up the river but we somehow missed each other.  He later phoned me at home to say he had my bag! I asked him not under any circumstances to do an eskimo roll! I am forever grateful to him.

He could have rescued the beer as some York Residents did!

New forms of transport to overcome the floods were embarked upon!

With no floods today, Victoria and myself reached the Millennium Bridge, which spans the 80 metre distance from bank to bank.

Acting as an 8 day guide to a 28 year old Alpine walker was taking its effect.

Awakening from my slumber, we carried onto the other side of the River Ouse to the Rowntrees Park Cafe for a most welcome caffeine hit.

 

The elusive Victoria.

We carried on to rejoin the Walls back to York Minster. Being late afternoon they were very quiet.

 

There are good views from the walls

 

Until the classic view of York Minster is reached.

The Ouse is crossed again

And the end of the walk is reached.

 

Miles Walked 3

As long as there are no floods, the York Walls and New Walk are a MUST for inclusion in ‘the Best of 31 years of Walking in Yorkshire condensed into 8 Days’.

Not only can you see the history of England encapsulated in one City, you will also get your camera bag back from England’s friendliest City should you lose it.

In addition, with Victoria not being a railway enthusiast, we hadn’t even been to the fabulous National Railway Museum. However, that would all change on Day 5 as I had a special day arranged for her!  I know how to treat a lady! 

 

 

Post 186: 5 September 2017, York Minster, A Walk along the Medieval Walls of York and The New Walk to the Millennium Bridge.

As we came out of Mannion’s Cafe there was some improvement in the weather as we passed York Minster, towards the start of our walk.

A good starting point for todays walk would be Simon Mattam’s very detailed guide book to the 700 year old walls. A Walking Guide to York’s City Wall, first published by Ebor publishing in 2004.

The guide was written for Friends of York Walls.  The walls are fairly easy to follow without the guide and there are pavement studs marking the trail. 

Built in ‘the Middle Ages‘ which began 900 years ago and lasted until about  500 years ago, the walls have survived the introduction of the canon, the English Civil War in the 1640s and 200 years ago a battle to knock them down for better traffic flow and fresh air. During Victorian Times a compromise was reached so that only parts were opened up.

So why is a City walk included in my ‘best of 31 years of walking in Yorkshire condensed into 8 days?’

York still has most of the walls that surrounded the city 700 years ago, which is incredible. Many claim they give the best city walk  in Britain.

My walk for Victoria from Germany was a variation on this to also include the New Walk, which was a tree lined avenue created in the 1730s during the reign of George II following the River Ouse. With the opening of the Millennium Bridge in 2001 it is now possible to cross the river and return to the city on the opposite bank with a stop off at the delightfully situated Rowntrees Park Cafe.   Even in rain (but not floods!)  the combination of the two walks makes for a great introduction to York.

We joined the walls opposite the York Art Gallery under Bootham Bar: the former is well worth a visit in its own right. There is so much to see in York!

It was just after 1pm.

The steps to the walls are near a plaque.

 

The great thing about starting the walk here is that you soon get some of the best views of York Minster.

 

Eventually we reached Monk Bar where there is a little museum.

Here we descended the steps. If you are tall like me watch your head!

We ascended more steps to the Ice House, which was made around 1800 and filled with ice so that it could be used for the rest of the year for iced foods and drinks.

 

An information board gives details of the Roman Walls that  existed in AD 71.

We then pass the Merchant Taylor’s Hall. This was a guild hall and part of the trade association. In medieval York for example there were 128 master-tailors in 1386 when records began.

Between us and the Hall, archaeologists have cut into into inner ramparts and have left exposed a corner of a Roman Legionary fort.

We soon came to a plaque marked Jewbury, which was where medieval Jews buried their dead. There was a thriving community in 13th century York. All Jews were expelled from England in 1290 so they could no longer take care of their cemeteries. Archaeologists have discovered about 500 medieval graves and the skeletons hereabouts.

It was soon after this that we left the walls to head towards the start of the New Walk at Skeldergate Bridge. It is possible to continue along the walls to the bridge, but I prefer to head to Ouse Bridge, which gives the opportunity of seeing the Shambles and having a pint outside the famous Kings Arms in summer or inside in winter. Germans including   Victoria like a beer.

We then briefly followed the River Foss, before taking a left turning past student accommodation to Walmgate and Fossgate.

Had this been 27/28 December 2015 we would have had to stop our walk due to the floods!!!

But today the sun was starting to come out and the flags were out.

And even the squirrels were out and about the city.

There are constant reminders of York’s historic past.

We passed the Shambles and the crowds.

And the Harry Potter shop and its queues! But ssshhh… don’t name it. These are Secret Diaries. 

We arrived at the Ouse Bridge, which looked a lot better than it did in 2015

And walked past the King’s Arms, which in 2015 was completely under water. Famous for surviving regular floods there are marks inside the pub showing the height of the water at times of different floods.

There were also a few problems in 2007 and 2012! The canoeists remained optimistic of a pint or two.

The route of our walk to Skeldergate Bridge is along the fence!

Deciding to wait for a coffee at Rowntrees Park instead of having a beer at the King’s Arms, we headed onto the start of the New Walk at Skeldergate Bridge.

Believe me the Walls and New Walk are delightful walks when there are no floods! You can never say York Walks are not exciting or full of interest, which is why they are included in my 8 days of the Best of Yorkshire!

Keep reading the next blogs for when the helicopters and canoe rescuers appear!