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Post 185: 5 September 2017, York Minster, A Walk along the Medieval Walls of York and The New Walk to the Millennium Bridge.

To condense the best of 31 years of walking in Yorkshire into 8 days MUST include walks in and around York.

The forecast for today was awful so we decided that Victoria should spend the morning exploring York and we would have lunch at Mannion’s cafe, which in my and other opinions is the best of the many cafes in York. Someone rated it in the top 15 attractions in York, which includes York Minster, The Yorvik Viking Centre, The National Railway Museum, Betty’s Cafe and such like!

We arranged to meet at York Minster and arriving early I took the opportunity to take some photographs, albeit in the rain. This does give York a special effect as the rain glistens off the pavements.

York Minster is the Cathedral Church of St Peter, the largest medieval building in England and the largest Gothic cathedral north of the Alps. I strongly recommend a visit to the top up the Central Tower, which is the highest point in York. 275 steps and 230 feet! Not for anyone with a heart problem.

I once managed it in 2010 after heavy overnight snow, when it was closed to the public. Where’s there’s a will……………Suffice to say I had spikes on my boots. I was able to get some unique photographs. One local vicar said they were the best he had seen of the Minster.

Victoria arrived and it was time for a delightful lunch at Mannion’s Cafe.

No proper walking yet but what would the afternoon bring? York shouldn’t be rushed.

 

Post 184: 4 September 2017, A walk to my trig point.

Following our walk around Sutton Bank I decided that Victoria, who desperately wanted to see heather which is not in the area of Germany where she lives, should see the view from my adopted trig point on my North of England Way, 

On the drive there we stopped alongside the River Rye, where a Canadian walking friend is at peace after passing far too young.  

Opposite the spot are fine views of Rievaulx Abbey.

The Cistercian Abbey was founded by Walter L’Espec in 1132. Its importance can be judged by the fact that thirty-five years after it was founded there were 140 monks, 249 lay brothers and 260 hired laymen, a large community. The Abbey nestles in a tree-covered valley whose narrowness accounts for the fact that the church is aligned from north to south instead of from the usual east to west. The monks created great wealth, from sheep farming (at one time they owned 14,000 sheep), iron working, fishing and salt production on the coast. Canals were used for floating blocks of stone on rafts from the River Rye to the Abbey for carving. Around the time of the Dissolution, however, the abbey declined and fell into debt and by 1536 only twenty-two monks remained. After 400 years of life, the site was eventually stripped for building stone and, in due course passed to the Duncombe family. It was acquired by the state in 1918, and is now superbly looked after by English Heritage.

Continuing our drive to the trig point, I felt we had earned a reward of one of my favourite Ryeburn ice-creams and a coffee in the cafe next to the car park in Hemsley.

Helmsley is a delightful market town, but we had no time to look around as it was now after 3.30pm.

Refreshed we headed out of Helmsley towards Pockley, then ascended along a dead straight one car lane past Low Farm, Middle Farm and High Farm, where we parked.

Coming from Germany, Victoria must have wondered where on earth she was going!

We walked up the ascending track.  It was  some 25 years earlier I had done this same walk wondering where I was going as I devised my coast to coast route. I had been disappointed that my route had so far not reached the proper heather moorland. All was to change when we went through the gate at the top of the track and a vista opened up before us that made us speechless.

We turned right along the escarpment to my adopted trig point, where one day I will rest in peace along with at least one other walking friend who is already there. Bookings are still open!

I do need to paint my trig again! Next Spring?

 

Whilst sitting on a bench dedicated to Dee (does anyone know who Dee is?) we listened to the silence of the place and looked at the expansive view of a patchwork of heather.

By a strange coincidence, I came back to this point in much better weather a few days later on a new walk I had just started, The Cot Combo Walk (see later blogs).

We then descended the heather lined track back to the car.

Victoria was very happy that she had seen so much heather.

It was about 5pm by the time we got back to the car.

Interestingly ashes cannot be scattered in Germany, so perhaps one day Victoria may decide to join me and my other walking friend at the trig. A walking club with a difference and attitude! 

Another must for the Best of Yorkshire in 8 Days. 

Miles Walked 3. 

 

 

 

 

Post 183: 4 September 2017, A walk around Sutton Bank.

Our route to our next walk involved driving towards Thirsk, turning right there and then going through Sutton-under-Whitestonecliffe, which has the longest place name in England and the cliff itself, which provides the name. The hairpin road to Sutton Bank regularly gets blocked by lorries, caravans and such like and indeed we thought this had happened to us. However, we managed to squeeze past a broken down lorry and continue up the very steep hill. A dramatic entry to the North York Moors National Park and Sutton Bank .

Day 3 of 31 years of walking in Yorkshire condensed into 8 days had to include what James Herriot described as the finest view in England. What he didn’t anticipate was that when Victoria and myself arrived at the car park at 9.45am the area was covered in thick mist. I was immediately called in to become the finest view in England, but I thought Victoria fitted the bill much better than me. I was ‘forced’ into posing for the photograph.

James Herriot was in my opinion wrong as to his assessment as, for me, the finest view in England is from the more remote and less accessible Harter Fell in the Lake District, looking towards the Scafell Range of mountains. I only found this because the location is on my ‘On Foot from Coast to Coast: The North of England Way’ route.

But on a clear day the view from Sutton Bank can be stunning, so had to be included in my list of the Best of Yorkshire in 8 days.

My claim to fame is that I had the same editor, Jenny Dereham at Michael Joseph (part of the Penquin group) for my book as James Herriot and Alfred Wainwright.  I was their first new author (the others were already published) and probably their last!

Austerity in Britain has become really bad as instead of the toilets being opened at about 8am, as they used to be years ago, they now don’t open until 10am causing this day a loss of 10 minutes of valuable walking. What has the world come to!

Leaving the car park we headed north along the top of the escarpment. Every cloud has a silver lining and, with all the mist, we came across fantastic web patterns in the bilberry plants thereabouts.

Now you may wonder why I have included a photograph of myself in snow. It is for comparison purposes. Whereas I am still going, the sign to Boltby has been replaced. Does that mean I am irreplaceable. My wife would probably say so especially after my 44th wedding anniversary the previous day, when I was on ‘leave of absence’. The snow was certainly deep in 2010!

 

We dropped off the escarpment and I thought Christmas had come early when I saw what I thought was a Christmas tree.  It was a thing of great beauty and intricacy built by spiders. Incredible. Never seen the like of such before. Nature is full of surprises.

We then passed the former home of Siegfried Farnon who was James Herriot’s boss in All Creatures Great and Small. 

Nature is full of colour. I think the antennae were zoomed in on me.

One of my favourite lunch stops is at Gormire Lake, where there just happens to be a swing over the water. I was able persuade Victoria to have a swing but, as ever, the rope held fast! Now if I was to do it with my extra weight it would probably snap? No I am not that daft.

Gormire Lake is one of the few natural lakes in North Yorkshire and due to its beauty legends have arisen. However, the name means ‘filthy swamp’. The Woodland Trust manage the area, which is a haven for wildlife. It is a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI).

It is rumoured the lake is bottomless, that it swallows witches or geese and spits them out miles away in wells and that a white mare leapt off White Mare Crag complete with doomed rider into the lake.

We eventually got to base of the hill on which the White Horse of Kilburn is located.

We then had many steps to climb. My pulse rate went up from 52 to 132 by the time I reached the top!

The White Horse was a bit grey.

It was carved out of the hillside in 1857 by John Hodgson, the village schoolmaster, with some thirty helpers. It is 314ft by 228ft. The underlying rock is limestone and the horse needs regular maintenance to keep its white coat.

We continued along the escarpment towards the car park with fine views now that the mist had cleared somewhat.

However, it was still too misty for gliders to take off.

There was a sad reminder that this is also an area of past tragedy’s. We will remember them.

Arriving at a location sign we were able find out we were 981 feet above sea level!

It was now nearly 3pm, but the day was far from over and we would be heading to some very special places later in the day……………………… 

Miles walked 9. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Post 182: 3 September 2017, Wedding Anniversary, The Yorkshire Wolds, Robert Fuller Gallery, Most Famous Deserted Medieval Village in England, Rambler’s Rest.

If you think BREXIT negotiations are bad, try negotiating a walking day out with a German, visiting, walking, female who happens to be 28 years old, on your 44th wedding anniversary! If I can do it successfully then so can our BREXIT negotiators.

In the end I planned a local walk on the Yorkshire Wolds so that I wouldn’t be away for too long. I also planned to cook steak and chips with all the trimmings alongside homemade chocolate and vanilla ice-cream and strawberries on my return.

However, what really saved the day was that Celia (my Wife) is the World’s Greatest Armchair TV watching cycling fan. Having watched every minute of the Arctic Tour, the Tour de France which Chris Froome won, she was now watching every minute of the Spanish Vuelta which Froome was leading. When I mentioned that I was sure she would prefer to watch this rather than going out for a treat she agreed!

We did agree a later departure time for the walk to give us time to open our anniversary cards. There aren’t that many!  With regard to presents we agreed we would put money aside towards an extra cruise.

It was a dry sunny day as Victoria and myself headed up Garrowby Hill (in the car) towards Thixendale. Turning off the A166 along a little lane we came to the Robert Fuller Gallery and made an impromptu stop to look at his gallery. I had been a few years before but it is much improved and we were blown away by the pictures on display. This is where he works when not in the field.

I really could do with buying a bigger house so I could have some of his wonderful creations on my walls. Being a keen landscape photographer my own walls are already full of my and my wife’s own photographs. I particularly liked his paintings of peregrine falcons, which are found at Malham Cove and the top of York Minster and red kites, which are now found on the Yorkshire Wolds and red squirrels, which are found in the Yorkshire Dales.

The penguin pictures are exquisite.

He is clearly a perfectionist of huge talent and I strongly recommend you find this oasis of creativity hidden in the Wolds. You will not be disappointed.

Not surprisingly we actually only started walking from Thixendale at 11.25am after looking at the posters near the village hall.

There used to be a youth hostel in the village but it is now closed. Seems like youngsters are less likely to go to these remote places.

I first did this classic Wolds walk with my family in the early 1990s after having moved to York in 1986.  It starts with a hill so family walks were fairly infrequent.

However, you are soon into David Hockney (the world famous painter) country. He has painted the Thixendale trees hereabouts, which adorn the dry chalkland valleys. If this was the chalklands of the south of England there would be lots of folks around, but here in Yorkshire you’re unlikely to meet many people – probably none on a weekday. But ssshhh keep it a secret.

A little church could just be viewed in the distance and that was our destination.

We dropped down to the church and the most famous example of a deserted medieval village in England,

Little remains but the noticeboards give an idea of what it must have been like.

We were disappointed to find the only bench by the village pond was occupied, but we found a sheltered spot on the grass for a lovely lunch-time picnic. The sun came out for a while.

We then moved on to the more recent church and farm remains.

Delightful Wolds walking took us back towards Thixendale to finish the walk at about 3.30pm.

Now in theory I was due to go back home early, but the sun was out and a short drive over the Wold’s to the Rambers’ Rest at Millington for coffee could not be missed.

We arrived at 3.55pm and it was due to close at 4pm. We had the place almost to ourselves and a most welcome coffee. I strongly recommend a visit there. No cake this time as it would not be long until steak!

 

Arriving back home my wife had clearly enjoyed the cycling as she offered to cook the steak. No wonder we have been married 44 years! Here’s to the next 44 years and many more walks!!!

A classic Wolds walk and day and a must for the Best of Yorkshire in 8 days.  

Miles Walked 8. 

 

 

 

 

Post 181: 2 September 2017, Scar House Reservoir. 

At this point, as I was about to leave Malham, I had what’s called a Change of Plan. The weather was so good it would have been a crime to go back to York and not show Victoria some more of the ‘Best of Yorkshire’. In life, walking and photography, when there is an opportunity you have to take it even though you might feel a little bit tired. The opportunity this weather offered could not be missed.

One of my most favourite little known places is actually outside the National Park and partly because of this it is little visited. It is the upper part of Nidderdale, around Scar House Reservoir. 

Leaving Malham Cove and the crowds, we were soon on delightfully quiet roads heading up steep and bendy tarmac with glorious views either side. They are the sort of roads that car companies use to advertise their new cars, where one gets a sense of freedom on the open road.

Easy Rider in a Volvo! 

We passed Malham Tarn, which could be just seen in the distance.

I was constantly on the look out for pull-ins to stop and capture the views before us. As we crossed over the Pennine Way at Great Hill Scar and descended towards Arncliffe and Littondale, I had to do an emergency stop to capture the view of Yew Cogar Scar alongside Cowside Beck.  Wonderful names and wonderful views.

Arncliffe came into view crowned by quilted heather above it. The wall patterns added to the intricate scene. Victoria stared at the walls for a long time as where she lives in Germany no such walls exist. It is a privilege to be able to show new overseas visitors around the area as they add to ones perspective of the area. We can take so much for granted.

 

It would have been good to turn left at Arncliffe and go into the ‘cul de sac’ of Littondale with its hamlets of Foxup, Litton and Halton Gill.  However, it was after 3.30pm and time was pressing on. So a quick right turn and then a drive down Littondale past Kilnsy Crag soon brought us to Grassington and back into the more touristy area. However, I had another objective in mind and we pressed onto Hebden where the roads again became quiet.

In the Greenhow Hill area, notorious for cyclists due to its steepness, we could soon see the environs of Nidderdale in the far distance .

 

It was then a steep drop down to Pateley Bridge and a sharp left before the playing fields to follow the road to the Gouthwaite Reservoir, which is passed. No time for bird watching there today!

At  the end of the reservoir we passed the delightful Yorke Arms at Ramsgill. I will stay there one day!

The road then became more winding as we ‘sped’ onto Lofthouse, with Nidderdale becoming more enclosed and beautiful as though capturing you with its magic spell.

No wonder Janet Street-Porter CBE, former president of the Rambler’s Association, media personality, journalist  and broadcaster has houses in this area.

After a quick stop at the very clean and well kept toilets (you can always tell a place by its toilets) we carried on a little further to a Yorkshire Water lane on the right. This looks as though it is a private lane. Don’t tell anyone (we don’t want it to get too busy – these are Secret Diaries) but it is possible to drive along the tarmac single lane.

Ascending the lovely valley we finally came to a car park with benches and toilets. Nearby is a huge ornate dam holding back Scar House Reservoir. It and Angram Reservoir just a little further up the valley were built to supply water to the Bradford area of West Yorkshire. The dam contains over one million tonnes of masonry and was built to last. It rises 55 metres above the river and is almost 600 metres long. It was completed in 1936. The dam height is 71 metres (233 feet). It is fed from Angram Reservoir, which in turn is fed from the mountain Great Whernside. It was once home to 1250 villagers who lived and worked building the dam. The Nidd Valley Light Railway was constructed to enable the reservoirs to be completed. The railway opened in 1907 and closed in 1937.

The geographical half way point of the delightful Nidderdale Way is the dam. The full walk which I completed in 2003 is 53 miles and starts at Ripley.

It was now 5pm and the light was starting to fade.

We listened to the silence and counted our blessings – we had made it on time.

Only the odd bird broke the silence of this special place.

So that was some of the best parts of the Yorkshire Dales seen and we are still only on Day 1!!

It was my 44th wedding anniversary the next day, so how could I keep my wife happy, but also keep on with this ‘project’ to show my overseas visitor the best of 31 years walking in Yorkshire condensed into 8 days?

Tricky.

 

Post 180: 2 September 2017, A Walk to Janet’s Foss, Gordale Scar and Malham Cove.

My walking friend, Victoria from Germany and myself left York at about 8.00am heading for what I regard as one of iconic geological features of Yorkshire – Malham Cove. It was a bright sunny day.

Arriving at Malham at just before 10.00am, we soon started walking and took my first photograph of the 8 day adventure at 10.17am. It was some Duke of Edinburgh girls practising their climbing skills.

The walk through woodland to Janet’s Foss in dappled sunlight was very pleasant. It promised a good day.

We passed a log with many coins in it, which are meant to bring luck if you make a wish to Jennet the queen of fairies.   

Janet’s Foss was surrounded by adults and children and it was difficult to get a photograph with no one in it, despite waiting for sometime. In particular, an adult in a Star Wars shirt would keep getting in the way. I was wishing someone would beam him up. Harry Potter comes to these parts and I am sure would have sorted him out. Victoria was a great fan. She was aged 28 and one of the ‘Harry Potter generation‘. Anywhere associated with Harry Potter gets invaded by fans. Unbelievable. I am not a great fiction reader much preferring reading non-fiction and real adventures (such as climbing Everest).

Now it is not for me to say, but I did wonder whether Star Wars fans are not really au fait with the customs and norms of the countryside, the main one being that other people want to photograph waterfalls and such like without hoards of people in the photograph. Some consideration of this would not go amiss.

Janet’s Foss has been used a natural sheep dip for local farmers, a location for family swims and celebrations and may even be the home of Jennet the queen of the fairies in a cave behind the falls or another small cave to the right.

The waterfall itself features tufa deposits forming on rock behind the waterfall. Tufa is formed by calcium carbonate rich water precipitation.

We continued to Gordale Scar campsite, which looked pretty full.  Gordale Scar is a limestone ravine with two waterfalls and has overhanging cliffs of over 100 metres – very encapsulating and impressive.

I had many years before scrambled up the left hand waterfall, but today there was too much water and I decided not to attempt it. Plus I was quite a few years older! 

We therefore retraced our steps back down the ‘valley’ to the road, where were turned right to a much quieter path off right, which led to the top of Malham Cove.

There were fabulous views of unique field patterns.

We stopped at the top of Malham Cove for lunch. There are few finer lunch stops in the UK. People would often go to the edge of the cove in front of us and we watched in trepidation in case anyone fell. People do take too high a risk for an ‘adrenaline’ view.

People were like ants on the top of the Cove grykes (gaps) and clints (blocks) which formed through erosion by water of the limestone. It was here that heroes Harry Potter and Hermione pause to wonder if they will ever defeat the evil Lord Voldemort – and at what cost. There is clearly a Harry Potter effect judging by how busy the cove was. I had never seen it anything like as busy before – now a real tourist honeypot.

The views down from the cove were also impressive.

After lunch we carried on up the dry valley above the cove towards Malham Tarn. I had plans to take my German friend to other iconic locations and so we did not continue to the Tarn, instead turning back down the dry valley to the top of the cove and some clint and gryke hopping over the tops of them. Again the views down the valley, the next part of our route, were stunning.

We descended some 253 feet of steps to the bottom of the cove. One surprise was to see no climbers on the cove cliffs. There is usually some mad person hanging on the end of a rope on the cove.

We followed the well maintained path to the village of Malham, with only one slight disappointment that there was no sign of peregrine falcons, which normally reside on the cliffs and raise chicks there.

Arriving at Malham we had a well earned Yorkshire Dales ice-cream.

A fabulous start to our day and the 8 day ‘tour’.

After such a dramatic start to the best of Yorkshire in 8 days – where next?

Miles Walked 7.5

 

 

 

 

Post 179: 1 September 2017.

I met Victoria at York station at 10pm. She had just flown from Munich to Manchester and then caught the train to York.

The concept of an 8 days introduction to Yorkshire (God’s Own County) had started back in September 2016, when I had happened by chance to meet Victoria from Germany at Pwll Deri Youth Hostel, near Fishguard, Pembrokeshire.

The views from the hostel were stunning.

Two of my former University friends were volunteer wardens at the hostel and persuaded me to join them as a guest and Victoria was visiting there from Germany. She clearly had a love of walking, especially in England, having already walked in parts of the Land’s End peninsula, where I had lived for four years and spent holidays over many years. One of my favourite areas.

Whilst we were talking over ‘wine and fresh crab’ about the best places to visit in England, I suggested that she should try the Lake District and/or York and Yorkshire.

Several months later she indicated that she had decided to visit York and Yorkshire. A good choice, although I am a little biased!

Having encouraged her to visit Yorkshire, I felt that I must make her visit as enjoyable as possible. Not least because York had been voted the friendliest City in the UK and there was a reputation to uphold!

It then occurred to me that I could work out a plan to try and condense the best of my 31 years of walking in Yorkshire into 8 days (excluding arrival and departure days). Like many of my plans they start as a small idea, often in the middle of the night (my brain seems to be more creative then!), and then metamorphose into something else.

43 of the 52 long-distance walks I have completed were in or went through Yorkshire.  I am still discovering new paths, new gems, new routes and new vistas. The problem was what to leave out, not just what to include. It is inevitable I would only scratch the surface of walks available.

Little did Victoria know that her feet would hardly touch the ground, apart from the walking that is, after arriving in York at 10pm.  I have plans to wake her up at just after 7 am next morning to head out to the Yorkshire Dales. Not everyone’s idea of a holiday, but then she was an enthusiastic walker and the best time of the day is early in the morning! She had made the mistake of saying walking was her priority!

I aim to include walks in the Yorkshire Dales, North York Moors, Yorkshire Wolds and the East Coast, but also to include a walk around York and if wet around the European City of Culture 2017 – Hull. A trip on the North York Moors Heritage Railway was also essential, not least to see the moors from the train. After the train journey a coast walk near Whitby would also be good too. It was also necessary to include what James Herriot said was the finest view in England from Sutton Bank (he was wrong, but that is another matter) and to include the amazing view of heather from my adopted trig point at Rollgate Bank, Pockley near Helmsley, where eventually I will ‘end up’ permanently.  Victoria had specifically asked to see heather as it is in short supply in Germany.

In addition, I wanted to  include the historical  side of York, e.g. top and basement of York Minster, walk around the medieval walls, walk to the Millennium Bridge. Everyone has invaded York, the Vikings, Romans, Normans and Anglo Saxons. Now we are invaded by tourists, which is much more pleasant.  There is also Betty’s, Rowntree Park and/or Mannion’s cafes to consider. Also to be included were Rievaulx and Whitby Abbey’s and the lesser known Chapel at Scotch Corner (near Sutton Bank), which is the inspiration behind a marvellous book, The Plot – A Biography of an English Acre. 

Late in the day one of my friends, who is volunteering at Slaidburn Youth Hostel, invited us over to the hostel and the Hodder Valley Agricultural Show on Saturday 9th September. I had planned to walk around the Three Peaks area around Pen-y-ghent and The Riblehead Viaduct. There is nothing like friends to upset plans, but what was worse it would mean leaving Yorkshire and going into Lancashire! However, not to be inhospitable as he had come all the way from Siberia (also known as Suffolk), I decided we might be able to fit both in, although it would be a long day with an early start and late finish. Sunset at the Ribblehead Viaduct?

I decided that straight away a walk around Malham Cove was essential. It is one of the iconic geological features of Yorkshire. Now being a bit of a geek at school I will insert below an extract from one of my three school prizes (I chose books on chess, transport and geography, all of which I still have! How geeky is that! Non of this Harry Potter stuff then). The World Transport book prize was published in 1963 and although describing future space travel, man did not land on the moon until 20 July 1969 at 20:18. How exciting is that!

I never did get to the moon and the nearest I got to it was seeing and photographing it rolling down a hill at about 6.00am in Flam, Norway.

You can tell I was a geek as the last prize was awarded in 1967-68 for O-levels and I chose  The Principles of Physical Geography by F.J. Monkhouse. I had A -level Geography to come.

Of Malham Cove it says:

‘It usually happens that faulting brings rocks of differing resistance into close juxtaposition, so that differential denudation will emphasis the line of the fault, forming a fault-line scarp. Thus to north of the Mid-Craven Fault in the Malham district of Yorkshire is an extensive plateau of Carboniferous Limestone. To the south this has been down-faulted some thousands of feet, so that the surface rocks consist of less resistant Bowland Shales. Denudation has caused the line of the fault to stand out as a series of ‘scars’ – Gigglewick and Attermire Scars, Malham Cove and Gordale Scar.’

With prose like that available to use, no wonder Geography was my favourite subject at school and I got grade 1 at O-level and an A at A-level.

E M Forster said in Howard’s End  ‘Only connect the prose and the passion………’. I had the prose and the passion would come later.

Thinking I would have to become a teacher if I studied geography at University (careers advice was non-existent then), I chose another degree subject and career path and have been passionate about walking, geography, photography and landscapes in my spare time since. A sort of ‘frustrated geographer’.

My geography teacher Mr White was nicknamed ‘Chalky White’ and I didn’t want to end up as a teacher with a silly nickname such as Mountain Maughan. However, in 2000 for the Millennium, I did end up in the newspapers as Mountain Man, but it was all in a good cause! 

At Malham Cove we would also see some of the best examples of grikes and clints in the world at the top of the cove.

We might even see the Peregrine Falcons that reside there. What could be more exciting? Peregrines are renowned for their speed , reaching over 320km per hour (200 mph) during its characteristic hunting stoop (high speed dive), making it the fastest member of the animal kingdom. It would be essential to take my binoculars, an  excellent retirement present from my colleagues at the University of York.

Malham Cove is a bit touristy now, but fortunately school holidays are nearly over and so hopefully most people will be spending the weekend doing last minute preparation for the return to school? Wishing thinking as a sunny day is forecast?

However, with an hour and a half hour drive to get there an early start would be good and the alarm clock is set to go off at 7.00 am (this was put back from 6.00am after negotiations worthy of BREXIT).  I will wake Victoria soon after. Not sure how I will break the news to her at 10pm after a long journey from Germany. She can always have a snooze in the car!

My wife of nearly 44 years (see 3rd September post to come – yes I have remembered! ) quickly learnt in our marriage to avoid such early excursions so that she could have a lie in. Poor Victoria hasn’t a chance.

The good news is that, on reaching the top of Malham Cove, I will pass 700 miles of the Country Walking Magazine 1,000 Mile 2017 Challenge. Only 300 more miles to go by 31 December 2017. ‘Boots on’ only miles being counted.

Future posts on the 8 day Tour de Yorkshire may be delayed as I am likely to be quite busy…………………………..

 

 

 

 

 

Post 178: 21 June 1998: Sub 8 on the ‘Three Peaks of Yorkshire’

The day of the Imperial Cancer Research Fund/RAF Leeming ‘Three Peaks’ challenge walk arrived and we were put into groups of 6 or 7.

This is our group and unlike the others, not being a member of Her Majesty’s Armed Forces, I am the one with spindly legs! Too much sitting at a desk in my job as a University Administrator.

After covering ourselves in factor 30, our team of six ‘white’ apparitions (we were white at the start of the walk) left Horton-in-Ribblesdale just after 8.00am, in bright sunshine, to head for the summit of Pen-y-ghent. I soon started to get worried when I found out my team included a member of the parachute regiment, a former Harrier jump-jet pilot and a member of the RAF mountain rescue team.

Had they put me in the wrong group? I must have filled the pre-walk form in wrong by admitting I had done coast to coast three times – a big mistake! I didn’t have time to find out if it was the wrong group as we were soon on the summit of Pen-y-ghent.

A quick drink and snack and I headed off to the peat bogs where a female member of another team was soon to find herself up to her waist in peat and water (up-date the route has now been changed to avoid these) .

A longer break of five minutes at the Ribblehead Viaduct,

enabled me to have a sandwich and drinks before heading on all fours (‘the direct route’) to the summit of Whernside (pictures taken later as no time on the walk!).

A glut of caterpillars on the ground made the ascent more interesting. One member of the group started to develop cramp, but that’s no excuse for not finishing.However, all the group reached the summit. There were fine views towards one of my favourite valleys Dentdale,

and ahead to Ingleborough, our next destination.

After a rapid descent of Whernside, we had an eight minute break. I was also starting to develop cramp and to get some salt into my aching body I ate a packet of crisps so quick you would have thought my life depended on it. It probably did.

As we ascended the final peak of Ingleborough, the sun scorched our tired bodies and morale did not improve when a distressed walker was carried down on a stretcher in the opposite direction, whilst receiving oxygen. However, by counting ten steps at a time then resting, the steep section was conquered and our leader encouraged us at the top by saying we were nearly there. If you believe that you will believe anything. We still had 7 miles to go.

Our leader then said he thought we could finish in less than 8 hours, which would be a remarkable time. So, after a quick gulp of water, it was fast walking and trotting down from Ingleborough summit, every step hurting as I had developed a lovely blister on the bottom of my heel.

On reaching a sign saying it was 1½ miles to Horton-in-Ribblesdale, I remembered that it is more like 3 miles. As I entered the village,

I had 8 minutes to reach the Pen-y-ghent café, the end of the walk. I tried to jog but cramp set in and so it was fast walking to the end. I finished with four minutes spare to join the ‘sub 8 hours club’. Ours was the only team to finish in less than 8 hours, the remaining teams finishing in 9 to 11 hours, still well within the 12-hour challenge time.

One person who had just been included in the Queen’s Birthday Honours list in recognition of his achievements, especially in raising money for cancer research, was the leader of the mountain rescue team from RAF Leeming, which supported the walk, Sergeant Al Sylvester. As we headed for the evening pub celebrations, he was required to wear a paper plate around his neck with ‘MBE’ inscribed on it. If he had dared to take it off he would have had to buy a round for 35!

I would like to make a special thanks to Gary for his support in the ‘training’ programme leading up to the walk. Although he didn’t quite do enough to be included in the Queen’s Birthday Honours List, he has nevertheless been awarded an honorary HMMMM. For those that haven’t heard of this unique and rarely given qualification it stands for ‘How many more miles Maughan?’

Thanks also go to the staff, including Frances and Helen, from the Imperial Cancer Research Fund who made us feel so welcome, gave encouragement when needed and fed and watered us so well. Also to the RAF mountain rescue team who supplied the tents, selected the route and offered support and advice on the walk. Fortunately, only one walker had to receive medical attention and was unable to complete the walk.

For two days after the walk I spent most of my time doing stretching exercises and having baths to stop my body seizing up. I also repaired blisters and sore feet. However, it was all worth it as I raised over £950 for cancer research towards a total contribution on the day of £10,500 from over 30 walkers. I also had the satisfaction of pushing myself beyond what I thought I could do, sub 8 hours.

What better way can you spend a weekend?

£450,000 is being spent on path restoration on the 3-Peaks, much of it caused by erosion caused by its popularity for charity walks. However, I wonder if anyone has quantified the reduced NHS bill and reduced work absenteeism as a result of improved fitness through walking? However, a voluntary code whereby the numbers are limited would not be unreasonable. I have heard of over 130 being on some walks.

THE THREE PEAKS CHALLENGE HAS TO BE COMPLETED IN 12 HOURS AND IS 24 MILES LONG AND INCLUDES PEN-Y-GHENT (694 METRES, 2,277 FEET), WHERNSIDE (736 METRES, 2415 FEET) AND INGLEBOROUGH (723 METRES 2372 FEET). 

GOOD LUCK! 

Post 177:  17 April 1998 Day 6 – St Ives to Penzance – 14 miles

Having survived the previous days encounter with the Real Mermaid of Zennor (see post 176), I started out with a skip in my step as I headed along the coast towards Carbis Bay on this my last day. Here I joined part of the Santiago de Compostela – a network of pilgrim routes, which lead to one of the three most important places of Christian pilgrimage in the world – the Cathedral of St James in Santiago de Compostela, North West Spain. No wonder I was excited. Since the ninth century, people have trekked across Europe to make their pilgrimage to the shrine of St James the Great, the brother of St John. In 1987 the Council of Europe decided to promote the Santiago de Compostela Pilgrim Way ‘as a highly symbolic and significant European cultural route’.

The St Michael’s Way is one of the Santiago de Compostela routes, which crosses Cornwall and was particularly used by pilgrims from Ireland and Wales who wished to reach Europe, without sailing around Land’s End. The route has been signposted by a shell sign based on the Council of Europe’s sign for pilgrim routes.

After leaving Carbis Bay with its gorgeous beaches and palm trees,

there is a steady climb until Knill’s Monument is reached. From here there are magnificent views of Carbis Bay and the north coast. John Knill was the Collector of Customs at St Ives in 1762 and Mayor five years later. He built this monument and left money for celebrations every five years, which have continued ever since. They are held on the Feast Day of St James the Apostle, 25th July, thus creating a link with the earlier pilgrims.

I left the fine views behind to quiet enclosed ways and country lanes. I soon passed a monolithic, longstone, or menhir. After passing through undulating fields I reached a huge granite boulder, The Bowl Rock supposedly bowled here by a giant during a game. Trencrom Hill a little further on was believed to be the centre for giants. It was in fact an Iron Age hill-fort and is now in the hands of the National Trust. From the top there were superb views from coast to coast, including Mounts Bay, and I was pleased to stop here for a lunch with a view.

Descending from the hill I passed the quaint Ninnesbridge Chapel now converted into a house.

After more undulating fields I descended a steep hill to Red River Ford, another place for a break but I had to watch out for the occasional car splashing me as it went through the stream.

Another ascent led past Ludgvan Church, noted for being where the famous antiquary and naturist, William Borlaze, was rector between 1722 and 1772. After walking along quite lanes I climbed Virgin Hill (I am not sure how or why it got its name but I can guess!) from where I enjoyed a tremendous view of St Michael’s Mount, a fairy tale scene. An island rises magnificently from Mounts Bay and perched on the top is a ‘12th-century castle’.

It was given to the monks from Mont St Michel in Normandy in 1070, and a Benedictine priory built on the summit in 1135 became an important place of pilgrimage in the Middle Ages. The priory, rebuilt in the 14th century, became the home of the St. Aubyn family in 1659 and the family still live there, although it is now owned by the National Trust. Fortunately the tide was out and I was able to gain access to the gardens and buildings by walking along the causeway. When the tide is in it is possible to be ferried in a boat.

As I left the Mount and followed the path above the broad beach along Mounts Bay my journey was coming to an end. Admiring Penzance church standing out above the houses it was time to reflect on a beauty and variety of this interesting walk.

I was soon on the Inter-City train heading away from this lovely peninsula back to the trappings of a busy commercial world. However, I knew I would come back……………

 

Post 176: 16 April 1998: Day 5 – Zennor to St Ives (via Zennor Quoit) – 8 miles

I awoke with a thick head, which was not helped by a claggy and wet morning. After a hearty cooked breakfast, I decided to visit Zennor’s Wayside museum, which has superb displays on the agricultural and historical background to the area. I then passed the traditional pub, the Tinner’s Arms, to the beautiful St Senera church of Zennor. It has been said that ‘When London was a collection of mud huts, Zennor was a church town.’ There has been a centre of worship here since the 6th century A.D.

The earliest record of a church dates from 1150, but little remains today of this church. Two of the old 16th century bench ends survived and they have been made into the ‘Mermaid Chair’. The carved figure of a mermaid is holding a glass in her right hand and a comb in her left hand.

It is said that a beautiful women in a long dress used to sit in this church listening to the wonderful singing of a local chorister, Matthew Trewhell. One day she lured him to the stream which runs through the village; she led him into the sea at Pendour Cove, now known as Mermaid’s Cove, where his voice can still be heard singing to his love. There are also two stone Cornish crosses in the churchyard.

Not finding a mermaid to lure me on this occasion, I carried on walking to try and find Zennor Quoit in thick mist. The Quoit took some finding but in an eerie cloud I came across the 4,500-year-old Neolithic chamber tomb with a main chamber of five upright stones and an antechamber of three others. I was captivated by the sense of timelessness and loneliness.

I returned to the coastal path and found the wind and rain starting to increase. It turned out that a force 8 storm was on its way. The path is very rocky, arduous and undulating, but provides dramatic coastline walking.

At two islets, the Carracks, there were seals sheltering on the rock.

Some years later I was sitting in warm sun at peace with the world watching the seals, when a walker from Holland came along. She was bronzed and had been walking the coastal path. I lent her my binoculars to see the seals and with that she carried on walking with me to St Ives. She was on the last day of her walk around the Land’s End peninsula. We chatted about the many long distance walks we had done and we were ‘kindred spirits’ both having a love of walking. I was very impressed as she had walked across the whole of Spain coast to coast and was now walking the Land’s End peninsula solo. How do you get fit to walk the steep ups and downs of this rugged coastline when you live in Holland which is flat? Turns out she roller-skated to work and cycled a lot.

As it got to late morning and lunch was on my mind, she asked me if I wanted to go somewhere quiet. Now I thought this was a bit odd as the path was already quiet, having not seen any other walkers, but I thought it might be a language thing (despite her English being very good) and she wanted somewhere quiet to have lunch. I suggested a couple of places aside the coastal path with very good views, but on both occasions she said she had something else in mind. I wasn’t really sure what she meant but thought there might be a better spot further along the path. Eventually, we came across a bench with a good view. I was getting hungry and wanted my lunch so more or less insisted we stop. Strange thing was she had no lunch with her, so I shared some of mine with her being a Good Samaratan. It was only later when I told my wife about my encounter she said that she thought the lady had something other than lunch in mind! She was the Real Mermaid of Zennor.

Back to 1998 and the storm was in full spate and the rain was at lashing me. At times the wind was so strong I had to bend over to grab the grass verge, so as not to get blown over. There were no other walkers about.  I have seen the rescue helicopter in this area on sunny calm days!

Arriving in St Ives an American couple asked where I had come from as I looked a bit wet. The water poured off my waterproofs onto the pavement.

It was with relief that I eventually found myself sipping tea in the number 38 art shop on the quayside in St Ives (photograph taken on another day!).

A friend runs the shop (update he is now retired) and I am always guaranteed a welcome cup of tea after the energetic walk from Zennor. One of my favourite walks of all time.

St Ives has everything, golden beaches, turquoise seas,

arts and crafts exhibitions, quaint cobbled streets, delicious fresh crab salads (from Stevensons), Cornish ice-cream,

traditional pubs,

restaurants, and cafes all centred around the harbour.

However, because of this it does tend to get rather crowded in summer.

The prominent St Ives Tate Gallery is worth a visit for lovers of modern art. The famous sculpture Barbara Hepworth lived in St Ives and her studio, Trewyn, was left to the nation after she died in a fire in 1975 and displays superb examples of her work, which were inspired by the landscape of this area.

After a pub meal with my friend and a guided tour around Trewyn I retired to my bed breakfast.

A truly memorable day.